Fig. 33.

Fig. 33 shows a diagram with the method of laying the foundation stitches:—One row is worked over the other; this lattice work supports the interlacing threads, which also require two rows to work them. Fig. P shows the insertion completed. At a casual glance, Fig. 33 appears to consist of two rows of herring-bone stitch, the one superimposed upon the other; but if a short line of herring-boning is worked and compared with the diagram the difference will be noted at once. In working the foundation, let the threads lie loosely on the surface to allow for the interlacing threads.

Method:—Secure the thread at the left lower line; take a short horizontal stitch, three-quarters of an inch to the right on the upper line. Note—place the thread under the needle when drawing the stitch through; this keeps the working thread under the diagonal stitch just formed. Cross to the lower line, and three-quarters of an inch further on take a horizontal stitch, but this time the thread is not kept under the needle, as it comes out on top and lies over the last diagonal. Proceed in this way until the end of the row is finished, then compare carefully with the diagram. Make sure before starting the second row that all the diagonal stitches beginning at the left of the upper row pass under those crossing from right to left; this is achieved, as said above, by keeping the thread under the needle on the upper row. The first row of the lattice being finished, start at the left of the upper line and work in the same way as before; cross to the lower line, and take the horizontal stitch exactly beneath that of the previous row; then slip the eye of the needle under the thread of the diagonal stitch and take the horizontal stitch on the upper line with the thread under the needle. Working in this way, little diamond-shaped spaces are formed. With the completion of the second row, it will be seen that the stitches are all interlaced over and under each other with the utmost regularity. For the inter-threading of the pattern, take a long thread and a blunt-pointed needle; the thread only enters the material at the starting and finishing of the work. Secure the thread at the left in the middle of the space between the upper and the lower lines; if an open insertion, it must be secured at the top. In Fig. 33, the thin dotted line represents the interlacing thread, which passes over and under the little crosses on the upper line and down to the crossing at the centre; thus the first row of interlacing threads are all worked on the upper half of the foundation stitches. When the end of the line is reached, turn the thread round the last central cross and return, interlacing the threads on the lower half of the herring-bone foundation. Note, in passing to the centre of the line, that the threads interlace regularly with those of the upper row, as they must pass to the upper side of the central crosses. By this time it will be seen how beautifully these threads fit into one another, but should any little mistake have occurred in the foundation stitches—the supporting lattice work—the equal and regular inter-threading will be found impossible. The thread must be chosen to suit the size of stitch—the foundation threads are practically covered. In Fig. P they are shown rather too clearly at the edges; also in Fig. 33 the interlacing thread is not in proportion to the size of the lattice work, but a little practice will soon show the worker the size of thread suitable for a border; a half-inch border requires a good stout thread to fill the space—too thin a thread will make the insertion rather poor in appearance, while too thick a thread will make the interlacing difficult to manipulate. This insertion looks well with all types of threads, therefore it can be used for many purposes. For making decorative hems for household linen it is most useful, and gives one quite a pleasant change from the usual hemstitch; it is also more practical, because much more durable. No threads are withdrawn; a single fold of the material turned over to the front surface is the preliminary; this is firmly secured by the two lines of herring-bone stitch. Large decorative initials could be worked with the same stitch; placed in the centre just below the hem, they would look very well—it would be better to draw these out on squared paper for the first trial, one or four squares to each cross, according to the size of the initial wanted. The insertion could be used for many purposes. In some of the old German linen work of the fourteenth century this stitch is applied to household linen—in geometrical patterns to borders, insertions and corners, where it looks very appropriate; they are worked with white thread on white linen, but there is no reason why they should not be embroidered on a coloured linen—blue would look very effective worked in white threads or vice versâ. At a later date, some of the Eastern countries adapted this stitch to their own type of work and design, conventional flowers being carried out with admirable effect in coloured silks. The worker would find this adaptation rather difficult unless she had done a fair amount of line work.

Cosy Cover.—Plate X. illustrates a piece of work suitable for everyday use. It is a washable cosy slip worked in white linen with a pattern in braid. In this example the braid is flexible enough to take the curves of the design easily; it is tacked on, as previously described in the nightdress case (Plate XI.), on the outer edges, and gathered up with tiny oversewn stitches on the inner, to make the curves lie nicely. The design is very simple; it is made up with French braid in varying lengths formed into curves at the corners; the ground is of white linen. The braid is sewn on in blue cotton with a small button-hole stitch; the little daisies of loop stitch and the surface filling of the centre are also in colour. The open web in the centre is a simple lace stitch worked in button-holing.

PLATE XII.

THREE HAT BANDS ([See p. 129.])

Method:—Cut away the linen (see description, [Plate X.]); work round the opening a row of button-hole stitch not too closely set, then work ten loose loops similar to Fig. 54. Catch the last loop of the circle into the first to join; then on the last-formed loop work six button-hole stitches; pass the next loop; work six button-hole stitches again into the following loop—the third; proceed in this way to the end of the row. Work on in continuous rows until the centre is reached; each group of pyramids must have one stitch less in each row as the circle becomes smaller. Finally, at the apex, the thread is twisted once round each loop; carry the thread to the edge of the material by overseaming the edge of the first pyramid; finish it off on the back of the linen. The square mesh for the open-work is prepared as described on p. 127. The open-work clusters of the background may be grouped differently from those in the illustration, where they are oversewn horizontally and vertically. Quite a pretty variety would be to work them in diagonal lines securing each cluster with a knot stitch.

Method:—Start the thread at a part on the left where a definite oblique line may be laid. Work a stitch with the thread under the needle, through the stitch and tighten the knot; carry the thread obliquely to the next cluster and repeat the knot. Another method is, after preparing the background, to fill up the spaces with four open loops of button-hole stitch; work each loop into half the cluster of surrounding threads—the other half is used in working the adjacent square; in other words, the open square is filled in with four little loops, the needle being passed through the first loop to join it with the last before passing on to the next square, and the clusters of loose warp and weft threads are divided and pulled apart by the loops, leaving a little oval-shaped opening. The edges of the cosy are worked round with loops (see [Fig. 57]). These finish the sides and serve as a means of lacing the two halves together. This manner of finishing makes for simplicity in the washing and ironing.