LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
| Dervishes at Bokhara | [Frontispiece] |
| Reception by Turkoman Chief on the Caspian Shore | [45] |
| Intruding upon the Haunts of the Wild Boar | [72] |
| Wild Man in the Desert | [108] |
| Receiving Payment for Human Heads--Khiva | [140] |
| The Ferry across the Oxus | [149] |
| Tebbad--Sand Storm in the Desert | [161] |
| Entry of the Emir into Samarcand | [216] |
| 'I swear you are an Englishman!' | [278] |
| Tent in Central Asia | [316] |
| Tartar Horse Race--Pursuit of a Bride (Kokburi) | [323] |
| Market on Horseback--Amongst the Özbegs | [345] |
| Map of Central Asia, showing Author's Route | [At the end] |
TRAVELS IN CENTRAL ASIA
CHAPTER I.
| TRAVELLING IN PERSIA |
| SLEEP ON HORSEBACK |
| TEHERAN |
| RECEPTION AT THE TURKISH EMBASSY |
| TURKEY AND PERSIA FERRUKH KHAN'S VISIT TO EUROPE |
| WAR BETWEEN DOST MOHAMMED KHAN AND SULTAN AHMED KHAN |
| EXCURSION TO SHIRAZ. |
Je marchais, et mes compagnons flottaient comme des branches par l'effet du sommeil.--Victor Hugo, from Omaïah ben Aiëdz.
[Travelling in Persia]
Whoever has travelled through Persia in the middle of July will sympathise with me when I say how glad I felt at having got through the district that extends from Tabris to Teheran. It is a distance of only fifteen, or perhaps we may rather say of only thirteen karavan stations: still, it is fearfully fatiguing, when circumstances compel one to toil slowly from station to station under a scorching sun, mounted upon a laden mule, and condemned to see nothing but such drought and barrenness as characterise almost the whole of Persia. How bitter the disappointment to him who has studied Persia only in Saadi, Khakani, and Hafiz; [{2}] or, still worse, who has received his dreamy impressions of the East from the beautiful imaginings of Goethe's 'Ost-Westlicher Divan,' or Victor Hugo's 'Orientales,' or the magnificent picturings of Tom Moore!