Theory of Silk Weaving / A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics - Arnold Wolfensberger

8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING

Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to doubling, if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is used, the rotation thereof.

9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING

The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is based on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards. A skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. The number of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. The formulas for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as follows:

Warp Calculation

Multiply:	Number of ends × length × count	= lbs
Divide by:	1000 yards × 256 drams	= lbs

Filling Calculation

Multiply:	Picks × xply × width × length of piece × count	= lbs
Divide by:	1000 yards × 256 drams	= lbs

The result in both cases will be in pounds.