While the different groups upon our deck still execrated the memory of Arnold, and pitied the unfortunate André, the thunder of cannon a thousand times repeated by the echoes of Hudson announced our arrival at West Point. We were rapidly carried on shore in the boats. General Lafayette was received by major Thayer, commandant of the establishment, and by generals Brown and Scott, accompanied by their staff. Lafayette was placed in an open carriage, accompanied by the widow of Colonel Hamilton, and followed by a long column of ladies who had come with Mrs. H., and a numerous population which had collected to receive him: they slowly ascended the road which conducted them to the military academy. During this march, two pieces of cannon placed on the summit of a rock far above our heads, kept up an incessant roaring. When we reached the plain upon which the buildings of the institution stand, we found the cadets drawn up in line. The general immediately passed them in review, and they manœuvred before him. After their evolutions were completed, they performed the honours of the entertainment they had prepared for him, with the most kind solicitude.
West Point appears to me to be well chosen for a military school. It is upon a very beautiful plain, elevated upon the right bank of the Hudson, and crowned by other high mountains, upon the summit of which, the ruins of old Fort Putnam may still be perceived. Its separation from the large cities, the silence of the forest, and the aspect of nature at once so imposing and beautiful, all appear to invite to meditation and study.
The pupils are two hundred in number: vacant places are at the disposal of the President of the United States. To be admitted, the candidate must not be younger than fourteen, nor older than twenty-one; must know how to read, write and cypher, and must sign with his parent or guardian an engagement to serve during five years, unless dismissed previous to the expiration of that time. The cadets are taught natural and experimental philosophy, mathematics, chemistry and mineralogy, drawing, fortification, strategy, fencing, and the French language. All the expenses of the institution are paid out of the national treasury. Every cadet receives a pay of six dollars a month, and two rations a day. They are formed into companies, and all do duty as privates or sub-officers, and live in camp during three months of the year in order to learn camp duty. At the conclusion of their term they are commissioned in the different corps of the army when vacancies occur; but most of them return again to civil life. Government rarely refuses them this privilege when it is asked, because its object is not so much to have a nursery of soldiers in this establishment, as to form citizens capable of filling, when necessary, the first offices in the militia service, which is thus annually enriched by a number of instructed young officers.
We had the pleasure of finding among the professors, three of our countrymen, Messrs. Berard, Ducommun and Gimbrede, who took great pleasure in answering our inquiries, and who appeared to stand high in the estimation of the officers and pupils of the institution.
At six P. M., we returned to the shore to embark. A great number of our travelling companions, but particularly the ladies finding it impossible to remain longer so much crowded together in the James Kent, left us to go on board another steam-boat which was returning to New York, and we continued on our journey with the kind and amiable members of the New York committee appointed to accompany the general.
At 7 o’clock we arrived at Newburgh; we should have arrived there at 3 o’clock, but for our accident upon the oyster bank, and thirty thousand persons waited on the shore with the greatest impatience for the arrival of the Nation’s Guest. The tables had been set from the morning. In fact it was easy to perceive this, for our reception here was more tumultuous than any we had yet witnessed. But even this fermentation furnished us with an opportunity to judge of the influence of the magistrates over the people, who even in moments of excitement never lose that respect which citizens owe the laws to which they have freely consented. After a rapid passage by torch light through the streets of Newburgh, in an open carriage, we stopped at the Orange hotel, where we were to dine with the principal inhabitants. While we were at table, a report was spread that general Lafayette was to leave the town immediately; and a vast concourse of people gathered in front of the hotel, and a thousand confused voices cried out that it was shameful thus to snatch from the citizens of Newburgh, the friend they had so long and so ardently desired; that the darkness which covered his arrival had not allowed any one to see him; that they should have the chagrin of being unable to render him the homage with which they had prepared to receive him; and in short, that they would not let him go until after sun-rise the next day, in order that he might bestow his benediction upon the children of Newburgh. To the noise of these clamours soon was added that of the struggle between the crowd and the guard stationed at the door of the hotel. During some moments the mayor of the town who was at table with us, paid but little attention to what was going on in the street, when he was informed that the disorder might become serious, that the militia and police officers began to grow fatigued with their resistance, the mayor rose, took general Lafayette by the hand and preceded by two torches, went out into a balcony which overlooked the street. At the sight of Lafayette the shouts and plaudits increased from all quarters, when the mayor made a sign for silence, which was immediately established. He then addressed the people:—“Gentlemen! (for in America the magistrates always speak politely to the people,) do you wish to distress the Nation’s Guest?” “No! no! no!” “Do you wish that Lafayette should be deprived of his liberty, in a country indebted to him for its freedom?” “No! no! no!” “Then listen to what I am about to say, and do not force me to call upon the law to restore order.” The silence then became profound. “Your friend is expected at Albany, he is engaged to be there to-morrow, before evening; he has already been delayed for three hours by an unexpected accident; if you retain him here until to-morrow, you will deprive him of the pleasure of visiting all the other towns which expect him upon his passage, and you will make him break all his engagements; do you wish to give him this pain?” “No! no! no!” and the air rung with shouts and huzzas. Lafayette then addressed a few words of thanks to the crowd, which were received with the greatest enthusiasm. The people, however, became silent, but still remained in the street though without disturbing the door of the hotel. When Lafayette came down, some citizens advanced and said it depended upon him entirely to console the inhabitants of Newburgh, and it would not cost him more than the delay of a quarter of an hour—“our wives and children are collected close by in a hall which was prepared for your reception; come for an instant that they may see you, and we shall all be happy.” It was impossible to resist so touching an appeal. We entered this hall filled with ladies, and girls dressed for a ball; they had already ceased to hope that they should see Lafayette, and his presence caused them an agreeable surprise. In the fulness of their joy they all crowded near him, and showered over him the wreathes and flowers with which they were adorned. In leaving this hall we found the men all standing in a double row along the way which led to the shore, and the general could not reach the steam-boat without receiving the most endearing expressions of the esteem of these excellent people, who in spite of his assurances, still feared that they had caused him inconvenience. He bade farewell to the authorities of Newburgh on board of the boat, and at a signal given by our captain, we recommenced our voyage in spite of the darkness.
The rising sun found us in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie, where it was impossible for the general to refuse landing. The wharves and shore were crowded with soldiers, citizens, and even a great number of ladies, who had all night waited for the arrival of Lafayette.
Poughkeepsie like all the towns bordering upon the Hudson is both manufacturing and commercial; the population therefore is rapidly increasing. In 1820 it was 3400 souls, at present it amounts to nearly 5000.
It was at the dwelling of George Clinton in Poughkeepsie, that Washington, Hamilton, Chancellor Livingston and Mr. Jay, used to meet to discuss the constitution adopted by the United States. The general was eloquently reminded of this circumstance by colonel Livingston, who was appointed to address him in the name of his fellow citizens.
In continuing our voyage we visited the family of the ancient governor Lewis, who reside in a beautiful dwelling on the right side of the river, and at four o’clock we arrived at Clermont, where we landed in front of the elegant residence of Mr. Robert Livingston, the former residence of chancellor Livingston. The entertainments prepared for us by the citizens of the environs, and the Livingston family, detained us till the next morning.