Scarcely had we left Clermont when we came in sight of the beautiful Catskill mountain, which arising at some miles from the river, finely terminates the horizon by its beautiful brown mass which is amphitheatrically developed, in the centre of which shows forth the white house of the pine garden situated 250 feet above the level of the Hudson. This house is an object of curiosity to the traveller, and a place of promenade for the neighbouring inhabitants.
The masses of soldiers and citizens which covered a long pier projecting into the river, by their acclamations informed general Lafayette that the inhabitants of Catskill also expected a visit from the national guest. We remained a few minutes only with this population, during which the general had the satisfaction of conversing with some of his former revolutionary companions, among whom he recognized one named Foster, who had been particularly attached to his service, when he was wounded at the battle of Brandywine.
To land at the little town of Hudson, we had to cross the river somewhat obliquely; at the port, which is very commercial, we were received by the authorities and people, at the head of whom was presented a detachment of about 80 revolutionary soldiers. One of them advanced from the ranks and showed him a sword he had received from Lafayette at Rhode Island. “After my death it will change owners,” said he, “but its destination shall never be changed, it shall always serve in defence of liberty.”
Triumphal arches had been erected, a public entertainment prepared, and the ladies were ready for dancing, but we had to forego all these festivities, in order to arrive at Albany the same day, where the general was expected with impatience. The inhabitants of Hudson perfectly comprehended his situation, and had the kindness to detain him but for a very short time.
The wealth of Hudson is daily increased by its commerce and manufactures. The population which in 1820 was not quite 3000 souls, at present amounts to 5000. The town is regular and well built; it arises in an amphitheatre about an hundred feet above the level of the river. The largest commercial vessels may lie at its wharves. Its environs are strongly marked with an agreeable aspect, and are well cultivated. Hudson was founded in 1784, and still contains many descendants of the Hollanders who came over in 1636.
In spite of the power of our steam engine, which enabled us to ascend the river at the rate of six miles an hour, it was five o’clock P. M. before we reached Overslaugh a small town situated upon the left bank of the river, a short distance from Albany. Here we were obliged to suspend our voyage, as the steam-boat drew too much water. We landed, and were immediately placed in an elegant barouche surrounded by an escort of dragoons, commanded by general Van Rensellaer and colonel Cooper, and in a few minutes we arrived at Greenbush, another village, in the centre of which we found a triumphal arch, beneath which some refreshments were presented, while the members of the corporation addressed the general, who answered them with that facility and appropriateness, which at least four or five times a day, caused the surprise and admiration of those who heard him.
It was not until night that we arrived in front of Albany, upon the banks of the river, which it was necessary we should cross to enter the city, which stands upon the right bank. A large team-boat called “Horses Back,” received both our carriages at the same time, drawn by four horses each, about thirty of the light-horsemen of the escort, and more than a hundred foot passengers, and bore us quickly to the other shore, which rung with the acclamations of the multitude, and the incessant thunder of artillery. The situation in which we were placed was grand and majestic; the obscurity of the night rendered it still more imposing; but it was not without its dangers. Every discharge of cannon, by its report and sudden light, startled the mettled horses which surrounded us, and which had no other barrier before them than a slight chain, that could not have hindered them from leaping into the river, if they had not been held by powerful men. George Lafayette’s filial solicitude for his father, caused him to quit the carriage, and take upon himself the securing of the horses which drew the general. At the moment of our landing the multitude redoubled their cries of joy; the escort and carriages sprung rapidly on shore, amidst so thick a crowd, that it is difficult to conceive how so many people, whom the enthusiasm of gratitude had urged upon the very wheels of Lafayette’s carriage, could escape uninjured. At the entrance of the suburb a procession was formed in order; a band of musicians led the march, and we went to the capitol through the principal streets, all of which were rendered light by innumerable illuminations, and high pyramids of blazing wood. At the entrance of the street leading to the capitol, was an arch of triumph, upon which was perched a large living eagle, which flapped its wings as the general passed, as if to render him homage.
We entered the senate chamber of the capitol. The galleries were filled with a great number of ladies. The municipality were assembled there. The general was received and addressed by the mayor, who eloquently expressed the gratitude of the United States, and especially of the city of Albany, “those who have shared with you the toils of our revolution, and who still live,” said he, “hail you as a friend and brother. The generation which has arisen since you quitted these shores, is animated with the same sentiments, and those which shall be born in future ages, will celebrate in you the benefactor of America, the hero of liberty. In each of the hearts which beat around you, you hold the place of friendship, and your eulogy is in all mouths.”
In his reply Lafayette could not avoid expressing his astonishment at the numerous changes which had taken place in the aspect of every thing at present offered to his view. “It is not a half century, since the town, then ancient, it is true, but still very small, served me for head quarters, upon the frontier of a vast wilderness. I received here, as commandant of the northern departments, the renunciation of the royal power and the acknowledgement of the more legitimate sovereignty of the people of the United States. At present I find Albany a rich and powerful city, the central seat of government of the state of New York, and the surrounding wilds changed into fertile and well cultivated plains. The present generation is already distinguished by two glorious wars, and still more by its sincere attachment to the institutions whose excellence assures it an incontestible superiority over the haughty power, which wished to arrogate over it the right of control.”
From the senate chamber we went to the apartments of governor Yates, who, surrounded by his staff, received the general with great cordiality and addressed him in the name of the state.