Our voyage was continued without any event of importance, until the 14th, when we descried land. The next morning at day-break, the pilot came on board, and in a few hours we could easily distinguish the fresh verdure which adorns Staten-island, the charming white dwellings which enlivened it, and the movement of its inhabitants, which the expectation of some great event had caused in all haste to run down to the shore. Already the sea around us was covered with a multitude of long, light and narrow boats, managed by vigorous, active men, the neatness of whose dress and the propriety of whose language contrasted singularly with the ideas which in Europe are generally associated with the sight of mere sailors. As soon as one of these boats arrived near the ship, her course was slackened; those on board cast anxious looks towards our deck, inquiring of our sailors if Lafayette were among us; as soon as answered in the affirmative, joy was expressed in all their features; they turned quickly to each other, shaking hands and congratulating themselves on the happiness they were about to enjoy; then returning towards the vessel, they asked a thousand questions, relative to the general’s health, how he had borne the voyage, &c. but without noise or disorderly impatience. We heard them rejoicing among themselves that Lafayette’s voyage had been pleasant and quick, that his health was good and that the wishes of their fellow citizens were about to be gratified; and all as if they had been the children of one family, rejoicing at the return of a much-loved and long-expected parent. While contemplating this novel and interesting scene, the thundering of cannon called my attention in another direction; this was from the artillery of Fort Lafayette, which announced the arrival of the Cadmus to the city of New York. At the same moment a steam-boat arrived, and we received on board a deputation, at the head of which was Mr. Tomkins, son of the Vice-President of the United States. He came to inform the general, that this being Sunday, the city of New York, which wished to give him a brilliant reception, but was unwilling to break the Sabbath, and which moreover had still some preparations to make, requested him to postpone his entry until the next day; in the mean time the Vice-President invited him to his house on Staten-island. The general accepted this invitation, and in a few minutes afterward, we were on shore, where we found the second officer of a great republic, on foot, without his coat, and his head covered with a military cap, cordially greeting his old friend, who on the morrow was to commence, amidst twelve millions of freemen, the most brilliant, and at the same time, the purest of triumphs. Mr. Tomkins conducted us to his house, where we were kindly received by Mrs. Tomkins and her daughters. But the report of Lafayette’s arrival was quickly spread over the great city of New York, and the bay was already covered with boats conveying crowds of citizens, who hastened to Staten-island to give him the first salutation, that Welcome, which the whole nation afterwards repeated with so much enthusiasm.
Very early on the morning of the 16th, the preparations for the reception of general Lafayette were completed in New York, and about the same time he received a deputation at Staten-island from the city, consisting of several members of the municipal corps, and the commanding general of the militia, who came to announce the arrival of the steam-boat Chancellor Livingston, which was to convey him to New York. At one o’clock the cannon of Fort Lafayette gave the signal for embarking; we immediately descended to the shore where we found numerous steam-boats, all resembling floating palaces. On board of the Chancellor Livingston, were the various deputations of the city, the generals and officers of the militia, the army and navy; a detachment of infantry and more than two hundred of the principal citizens of New York, among whom the general recognized many of his old fellow soldiers, who threw themselves into his arms, felicitating themselves on seeing him once more after so many years and dangers past. During these moving scenes of gratitude and joy, a delightful music performed the French air “Où peut-on être mieux qu’au sein de sa famille,”[[1]] and the flotilla began to move.
It is impossible to describe the majesty of this procession towards the city. The sea was covered with boats of every sort, elegantly decorated with flags and filled with people; these boats which were moved with a swiftness and lightness almost inconceivable, appeared to fly around us.
The Cadmus which followed us, appeared rather to be led in triumph, than to be towed by the two steam-boats, which accompanied her. As we advanced, the forts which protect the harbour, and afterwards the houses bordering on the water, became more distinctly visible: soon after we could distinguish the crowd which everywhere covered the shore, perceive its agitation, and hear the shouts of joy. At two o’clock, the general landed at the battery amid the acclamations of two hundred thousand voices, which hailed him with sounds of blessing and welcome. The Lafayette Guards dressed in an elegant and neat uniform, bearing on their breast the portrait of the general, escorted him in front of the long line of militia drawn up to receive him. The general, attended by a numerous and brilliant staff, marched along the front; as he advanced, each corps presented arms and saluted him with its colours; all were decorated with a ribband bearing his portrait, and the legend “Welcome Lafayette;” words which were everywhere written and repeated by every tongue. During this review, the cannon thundered on the shore, in the forts, and from all the vessels of war. “Ah! could this thundering welcome but resound to Europe,” said a young American officer who accompanied us, “that it might inspire the powers which govern you with the love of virtue, and the people with the love of liberty!” These wishes which were also those of my own heart, turned my thoughts to my own country, and drew from me an involuntary sigh.
At the extremity of the line of troops, elegant carriages were in waiting. General Lafayette was seated in a car drawn by four white horses, and in the midst of an immense crowd, we went to the City Hall. On our way, all the streets were decorated with flags and drapery, and from all the windows flowers and wreaths were showered upon the general. On his arrival at the City Hall, he was received by the municipal authorities, at the head of whom was the Mayor, who addressed the general, on behalf of the citizens in an animated and appropriate manner.
After the general had expressed his grateful sense of the honorable manner in which he had been received, and his admiration at the prodigies he witnessed, we were conducted to the peristyle of the City Hall, to see that army of militia file off, which we had found drawn up in line on the battery. We could at our ease remark its composition and equipments; its composition is that of a truly national army, being formed entirely of young and vigorous citizens, capable of bearing arms and enduring fatigue, without distinction of wealth or birth. The firm march of the divisions, and the martial air of the men, appeared to me a proof of the care, with which each individual prepared himself to be, in case of need, a defender of his country. The artillery which followed the infantry is formidable in number, but I believe is far from fulfilling the conditions necessary to constitute a good light artillery. The variety of caliber must necessarily prove an embarrassment in providing munitions for a campaign. It is said this inconvenience will soon disappear, because the government has undertaken to furnish cannon to every new company that is organized, and that the guns will be cast only of a very small number of determined calibers.
After the troops had defiled, we entered the great saloon of the City Hall, which is adorned with the portraits of many men who, by their talents or valor, have rendered service to their country: among the portraits was one of general Lafayette. The doors of this saloon were left open to the public, which pressed towards it, and during more than two hours the general was as it were, given up to the enthusiasm of the people. Mothers surrounded him, presenting their children and asking his blessing, which having obtained, they embraced their offspring with renewed tenderness; feeble old men appeared to become re-animated in talking to him of the numerous battles in which they had been engaged with him for the sake of liberty. Men of colour reminded him with tenderness of his philanthropical efforts at various periods, to replace them in the rank, which horrid prejudices still deny them in some countries; young men whose hard and blackened hands announced their laborious occupations, stopped before him and said with energy, “We also belong to the ten millions who are indebted to you for liberty and happiness!” Many others wished to speak to him, but were prevented by their tears; those who could not approach him, endeavoured to compensate for it by addressing George Lafayette, whom they pressed in their arms, while talking to him of their admiration for his father. At five o’clock, the general with difficulty separated himself from the embraces of his numerous friends, and was conducted to the City Hotel, which had been magnificently fitted up for his reception. The national standard displayed over the door, indicated from afar the residence of “The Nation’s Guest,” the glorious and moving title by which he was greeted with acclamations, when he entered. A splendid dinner, at which all the civil and military authorities were present, terminated this day, which alone might be considered as a glorious recompense for the greatest sacrifices, yet which, however, was but the prelude to the unexampled triumph reserved for Lafayette.
During the four following days, the general found it difficult to divide his time in such a manner as to satisfy the wishes of all his friends. He devoted, daily, two hours to the public in the City Hall, into which the crowd pressed as on the first day, and he there received numerous deputations from neighbouring cities, and different states, which expressed their desire and hope of receiving him. The rest of the time was employed in attending the meetings of the learned societies of the city. The Historical society held an extraordinary session, under the presidency of Dr. Hosack, and received him and his son as honorary members. The members of the bar, the society of the Cincinnati, and the French residents of New York came to compliment him. The latter, under their president Mr. Monneron, expressed with animation the sentiments which the triumph of their compatriot inspired. At the conclusion of his address, a little girl carried by her father, saluted the general, and placed a chaplet of immortelles[[2]] on his head. The general answered it with deep emotion.
At the mention of the best days of our revolution, every one felt himself deeply affected, and came to shake hands with the general, saying, “Yes, the condition of an immense majority of the people is improved. May France carefully preserve the remains of the public liberties won by the revolution.”
On the 18th, the officers of the navy wished to entertain the guest of the nation, who crossed the East river in a steam-boat to Brooklyn, where the navy yard and marine arsenal are situated. On this short passage, the general was saluted by the guns of several frigates and ships of the line lying at anchor. This visit, which the naval officers knew how to render both agreeable and interesting, gave us an opportunity of examining a fine steam-frigate. This formidable machine resembles a floating fortification; its sides strengthened by strong masonry, are shot proof; its necessarily slow movements do not allow of its being used in the open sea, but render it very suitable for the defence of the coasts, the threatened points of which it can readily cover, by placing itself under the protection of the land batteries. It is said that the government intends to complete its system of maritime defence, by the construction of many similar frigates.