The governor presented the general, in the name of the state, with a beautiful map of South Carolina, enclosed in a rich case of silver. Many other persons came also to offer handsome keepsakes, which he gratefully accepted.
On the 17th of March he left Charleston, carrying with him the regrets of his friends, and the blessings of the people.
CHAPTER V.
Fort Moultrie—Edisto Island—Alligators—Savannah—Funeral Monuments—Augusta—State of Georgia.
The roads of South Carolina being generally very bad, the Charleston committee resolved to conduct the general by sea to Savannah, where he had been expected for some time. We embarked on the 17th of March, on board of an elegant steam-boat, prepared and well provisioned by the attentions of the committee, and took leave of the inhabitants of Charleston, who, assembled on the wharf and crowding the vessels, responded, by their acclamations, to the parting salutations of their guest. Before losing sight of Charleston, we directed our course towards Sullivan’s Island, upon which stands Fort Moultrie, which saluted General Lafayette with all its guns. This fort, commanding the pass by which the vessels are obliged to enter the port of Charleston, was defended with extraordinary courage by the Carolinian militia, on the 28th of June, 1776, against the English forces, superior both in numbers and experience.
The militia were commanded by General Moultrie, who, during the revolutionary war, sustained the highest reputation for the valour and ability with which he defended this important post. We afterwards continued our navigation between the continent and the islands which border it, and extend as far as Savannah. We landed on one of these, called Edisto, where General Lafayette was expected; but, as it was impossible for him to remain there more than two or three hours, the inhabitants, who were collected at one of the principal proprietor’s, decided to offer him at once all the festivals they had prepared for several days. We had, at the same time, the harangue, the public dinner, the ball, and even the baptism of a charming little infant, to which the name of Lafayette was given. We then rapidly traversed the island in a carriage, to join our steam-boat, which awaited us on the side next the ocean. What we saw of the island, in this short ride, appeared to us enchanting; the vegetation was particularly striking from its variety; odoriferous shrubs of the most elegant form, were agreeably interspersed among large forest trees; and, in the downs which border the sea-shore, we saw some beautiful palm-trees, which gave to the small dwellings they shaded an aspect altogether picturesque. This island, which lies at the mouth of Edisto river, forty miles south-west of Charleston, is twelve miles in length and five broad. It has been inhabited since 1700.
During the rest of our voyage to Savannah, we coasted the islands of Hunting, Beaufort, Port Republican, Hilton Head, &c.; and often through passages so narrow, that our vessel almost touched the land on each side, and had rather the appearance of rolling on the surrounding meadows, than of gliding on the water which disappeared beneath us It was nearly midnight when we passed Beaufort, and all on board were asleep; but we were soon awakened by the acclamations of citizens, who were waiting on the shore, and General Lafayette having arisen, yielded with readiness to their desire that he would land for some moments among them.
At sunrise, as we approached the mouth of the Savannah river, we began to see some alligators extended on the shore, or swimming round our vessel. Our captain shot one, and sent the boat for it. It was about eight feet long, and we were assured that it was but of a middling size; some of them extend to twelve feet, and sometimes even, it is said, to fifteen or eighteen. The size of their body is then equal to that of a horse. When of this size, the alligator is a formidable animal, from its prodigious power and agility in the water. Its form is nearly like that of a lizard; it differs from it only by its cuneiform tail, flattened on the sides, and which, from the root to the extremity, diminishes insensibly. Like all the rest of the body, it is covered with a scaly coat, impenetrable to all arms, even to a musket-ball.[[4]] The head of an alligator of the largest size is about three feet; the opening of the jaws is of the same dimensions; its eyes are very small, sunken in the head, and covered; its nostrils are large, and so much developed at the summit, that, when it swims its head at the surface of the water resembles a large floating beam. Its upper jaw, only, is moveable; it opens perpendicularly, and forms a right angle with the lower jaw.[[5]] On each side of the upper jaw, immediately below the nostrils, are two long and strong teeth, slightly pointed and of a conical form. They have the whiteness and polish of ivory, and being always exposed, give to the animal a frightful aspect. In the under jaw, just opposite these two teeth, are two sockets proper to receive them. When the alligator strikes his jaws together, it produces a noise absolutely like that made by slapping a board violently against the ground, and which may be heard a great distance.
When, on the morning of the 19th, we arrived in sight of Savannah, we perceived all the population on the shore, and the militia assembled, who had waited during several hours. We soon heard the majestic salute of the artillery, and the acclamations of the people. We replied to them by a salute from the guns of our vessel, and by the patriotic airs with which our music caused to re-echo from the shore. To this first feeling of pleasure caused by the reception of the citizens of Savannah, a sentiment of painful regret suddenly succeeded. We had to separate from our travelling companions of South Carolina. Among them were the governor of this state, several general officers, and some members of the committee who had received us at Charleston. The governor, faithful to the laws which inhibited his passing beyond the limits of the state, resisted all entreaties to induce him to land, and bade farewell to the general with all the emotion of a child who separates himself from a parent he is to see no more. Some minutes after, we were in Georgia, at the entrance of Savannah, where the general was received and addressed by Governor Troup, in the midst of an eager crowd. The triumphal car and arches, the acclamations of the people, the wreaths and flowers scattered by the ladies, the sound of bells and cannon, every thing proved to Lafayette that though he had passed into another state, he was nevertheless among the same friendly and grateful people.
A commodious lodging had been prepared in the elegant mansion of Mrs. Maxwell; thither they conducted General Lafayette with a grand escort. After he had reposed some moments, the mayor and council of the city came to compliment him, and the day was terminated by a public repast, at which the civil and military authorities of the state and of Savannah, the members of the bar, the clergy, and a great number of citizens, were present. After the thirteen usual toasts, the company offered many volunteer toasts, all strongly indicative of the patriotic and republican character which always distinguishes American assemblies. General Lafayette replied to the toast addressed to him, by the following: “To the City of Savannah—May her youthful prosperity prove more and more to the old world, the superiority of republican institutions, and of the government of the people by themselves.” A hymn to liberty, to the air la Marseillaise, terminated the banquet, and we returned to our quarters by the light of an illumination which blazed over all the city.