LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
N. E. Façade and Entrance to Sennacherib’s Palace, restored[Frontispiece.]
The Melek Taous or Copper Bird of the Yezidis[46]
Subterranean Excavations at Kouyunjik[61]
Mound of Nimroud[84]
Head-dress of Captives employed by Assyrians in moving Bull (Kouyunjik)[92]
Village with Conical Roofs near Aleppo[97]
Bulls with Historical Inscriptions of Sennacherib (Kouyunjik)[113]
Sennacherib on his Throne before Lachish[129]
Feet of Tripods in Bronze and Iron[151]
A Captive (of the Tokkari?) Kouyunjik[193]
Lion discovered at Arban[231]
Volcanic Cone of Koukab[268]
Entrance to small Temple (Nimroud)[Facing page 288]
Fish-God at Entrance to small Temple (Nimroud)[289]
Kurds of Wan[320]
Figures of Assyrian Venus in baked Clay[383]
The Mujelibé or Kasr (from Rich)[392]
Plan of part of the Ruins of Babylon on the Eastern Bank of the Euphrates[396]
Jug of Soapstone, from the Mound of Babel[409]
Assyrian Pedestal, from Kouyunjik[477]
Part of Colossal Head, from Kouyunjik[481]
Plan of the Inclosure Walls and Ditches at Kouyunjik[536]
Map of Assyria, etc.
General Map of Mesopotamia
[at the end.]


CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I.]
The Trustees of the British Museum resume Excavations at Nineveh.—Departure from Constantinople.—Description of our Party.—Roadsfrom Trebizond to Erzeroom.—Description of the Country.—Armenian Churches.—Erzeroom.—Reshid Pasha.—The Dudjook Tribes.—ShahanBey.—Turkish Reform.—Journey through Armenia.—An Armenian Bishop.—The Lakes of Shailu and Nazik[15]
[CHAPTER II.]
The Lake of Wan.—Akhlat.—Tatar Tombs.—Ancient Remains.—A Dervish.—A Friend.—The Mudir.—ArmenianRemains.—An Armenian Convent and Bishop.—Journey to Bitlis.—Nimroud Dagh.—Bitlis.—Journey to Kherzan.—Yezidi Village[30]
[CHAPTER III.]
Reception by the Yezidis.—Village of Guzelder.—Triumphal March to Redwan.—Redwan.—Armenian Church.—The Melek Taous, or BrazenBird.—Tilleh.—Valley of the Tigris.—Bas-reliefs.—Journey to Dereboun.—To Semil.—Abde Agha.—Journey to Mosul.—The YezidiChiefs.—Arrival at Mosul.—Xenophon’s March from the Zab to the Black Sea[42]
[CHAPTER IV.]
State of the Excavations on my Return to Mosul.—Discoveries at Kouyunjik.—Tunnels in the Mound.—Bas-reliefs representing AssyrianConquests.—A Well.—Siege of a City.—Nature of Sculptures at Kouyunjik.—Arrangement for Renewal of Excavations.—Description ofMound.—Kiamil Pasha.—Visit to Sheikh Adi.—Yezidi Ceremonies.—Sheikh Jindi.—YezidiMeeting.—Dress of the Women.—Bavian.—Doctrines of the Yezidi.—Jerraiyah.—Return to Mosul[61]
[CHAPTER V.]
Renewal of Excavations at Kouyunjik.—First Visit to Nimroud.—State of Ruins.—Renew Excavations in Mound.—Visit of Col. Rawlinson.—Mr.H. Rassam.—The Jebour Workmen at Kouyunjik.—Discoveries at Kouyunjik.—Sculptures representing moving of great Stones and WingedBulls.—Methods adopted.—Epigraphs on Bas-reliefs of moving Bulls.—Sculptures representing Invasion of Mountainous Country, and Sackof City.—Discovery of Gateway.—Excavation in high conical Mound at Nimroud.—Discovery of Wall of Stone.—Visit to Khorsabad.—Discoveryof Slab.—State of the Ruins.—Futhliyah.—Baazani.—Baasheikhah[84]
[CHAPTER VI.]
Discovery of Grand Entrance to the Palace of Kouyunjik.—Of the Name of Sennacherib in the Inscriptions.—The Records of that King in theInscriptions on the Bulls.—An Abridged Translation of them.—Name of Hezekiah.—Account of Sennacherib’s Wars with the Jews.—Dr. Hincksand Col. Rawlinson.—The Names of Sargon and Shalmaneser.—Discovery of Sculptures at Kouyunjik, representing the Siege of Lachish.—Descriptionof the Sculptures.—Discovery of Clay Seals.—Of Signets of Egyptian and Assyrian Kings.—Cartouche of Sabaco.—Name of Essarhaddon.—Confirmationof Historical Records of the Bible.—Royal Cylinder of Sennacherib[113]
[CHAPTER VII.]
Road open for removal of Winged Lions.—Discovery of Vaulted Drain.—Of other Arches.—Of Painted Bricks.—Attack of the Taion the Village of Nimroud.—Visit to the Howar.—Description of the Encampment of the Tai.—The Plain of Shomamok.—SheikhFaras.—Wali Bey.—Return to Nimroud[137]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
Contents of newly-discovered Chamber.—A Well.—Large Copper Caldrons.—Bells, Rings, and other Objects in Metal.—Tripods.—Caldronsand large Vessels.—Bronze Bowls, Cups, and Dishes.—Description of the Embossings upon them.—Arms and Armour.—Shields.—IronInstruments.—Ivory Remains.—Bronze Cubes inlaid with Gold.—Glass Bowls.—Lens.—The Royal Throne[150]
[CHAPTER IX.]
Visit to the Winged Lions by Night.—The Bitumen Springs.—Removal of the Winged Lions to the River.—Floods at Nimroud.—Yezidi MarriageFestival.—Baazani.—Visit to Bavian.—Site of the Battle of Arbela.—Description of Rock-Sculptures.—Inscriptions.—The Shabbaks[167]
[CHAPTER X.]
Visit to Kalah Sherghat prevented.—Visit to Shomamok.—Keshaf.—The Howar.—A Bedouin.—His Mission.—Descent of ArabHorses.—Their Pedigree.—Ruins of Mokhamour.—The Mound of the Kasr.—Plain of Shomamok.—The Gla or Kalah.—Xenophon and theTen Thousand.—A Wolf.—Return to Nimroud and Mosul.—Discoveries at Kouyunjik.—Description of the Bas-reliefs[182]
[CHAPTER XI.]
Preparations for a Journey to the Khabour.—Sculptures discovered there.—Sheikh Suttum.—His Rediff.—Departure fromMosul.—First Encampment.—Abou Khameera.—A Storm.—Tel Ermah.—A Stranger.—Tel Jemal.—The Chief of TelAfer.—A Sunset in the Desert.—A Jebour Encampment.—The Belled Sinjar.—The Sinjar Hill.—Mirkan.—Bukra.—Thedress of the Yezidis.—The Shomal.—Ossofa.—Aldina.—Return to the Belled.—A Snake-Charmer.—Journey continued in theDesert.—Rishwan.—Encampment of the Boraij.—Dress of Arab Women.—Rathaiyah.—ADeputation from the Yezidis.—Arab Encampments.—The Khabour.—Mohammed Emin.—Arrival at Arban[195]
[CHAPTER XII.]
Arban.—Our Encampment.—Suttum and Mohammed Emin.—Winged Bulls discovered.—Excavations commenced.—Their Results.—Discoveryof Small Objects—of Second Pair of Winged Bulls.—of Lion—of Chinese Bottle—of Vase—of Egyptian Scarabs—of Tombs.—The Scene ofthe Captivity[225]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
Residence at Arban.—Mohammed Emin’s Tent.—The Agaydat.—our Tents.—Bread-baking.—Foodof the Bedouins.—Thin Bread.—The Produce of their Flocks.—Diseases amongst them.—Their Remedies.—The Deloulor Dromedary.—Bedouin Warfare.—Suttum’s First Wife.—A Storm.—Turtles.—Lions.—A Bedouin Robber.—Beavers.—Rideto Ledjmiyat—A Plundering Expedition.—Loss of a Hawk.—Ruins of Shemshani.—Return to Arban.—Visit to Moghamis[237]
[CHAPTER XIV.]
Leave Arban.—The Banks of the Khabour.—Artificial Mounds.—Mijwell.—The Cadi of the Bedouins.—The Thar orBlood-Revenge.—Caution of Arabs.—A natural Cavern.—An extinct volcano.—The Confluents ofthe Khabour.—Bedouin Marks.—Suleiman Agha.—Encampment at Um-Jerjeh.—The Turkish Irregular Cavalry.—Mound of Mijdel.—Ruins onthe Khabour.—Mohammed Emin leaves us.—Visit to Kurdish Tents and Harem.—The Milli Kurds.—The Family of Rishwan.—Arab Love-making.—TheDakheel.—Bedouin Poets and Poetry.—Turkish Cavalry Horses[252]
[CHAPTER XV.]
Departure from the Khabour.—Arab Sagacity.—The Hol.—The Lake of Khatouniyah.—Return of Suttum.—Encampmentof the Shammar.—Arab Horses—their Breeds—their Value—their Speed.—Sheikh Ferhan.—YezidiVillages.—Falcons.—An Alarm.—Abou Maria.—Eski Mosul.—Arrival at Mosul.—Return of Suttum to the Desert[268]
[CHAPTER XVI.]
Discoveries at Kouyunjik.—Procession of Figures bearing Fruit and Game.—Locusts.—Led Horses.—An AssyrianCampaign.—Dagon, or the Fish-God.—The Chambers of Records.—Inscribed Clay Tablets.—Return to Nimroud.—Effects of theFlood.—Discoveries.—Small Temple under high Mound.—The Evil Spirit.—Fish-God.—Fine Bas-relief of the King.—Extractsfrom the Inscription.—Great inscribed Monolith.—Extracts from the Inscription.—Cedar Beams.—Small Objects.—Second Temple.—MarbleFigure and other Objects[280]
[CHAPTER XVII.]
The Summer.—Encampment at Kouyunjik.—Visitors.—Mode of Life.—Departure for the Mountains.—Akra.—Rock-Tablets atGunduk.—District of Zibari.—Namet Agha.—District of Shirwan—of Baradost—of Gherdi—of Shemdina.—MousaBey.—Nestorian Bishop.—Convent of Mar Hananisho.—Dizza.—An Albanian Friend.—Bash-Kalah.—Izzet Pasha.—AJewish Encampment.—High Mountain Pass.—Mahmoudiyah.—First View of Wan[300]
[CHAPTER XVIII.]
Mehemet Pasha.—Description of Wan.—Its History.—Improvement in its Condition.—The Armenian Bishop.—The Cuneiform Inscriptions.—TheCaves of Khorkhor.—The Meher Kapousi.—A Tradition.—Observations on theInscriptions.—The Bairam.—An American School.—The American Missions.—Protestant Movement in Turkey.—Amikh.—The Convent of Yedi Klissia[320]
[CHAPTER XIX.]
Leave Wan.—The Armenian Patriarch.—The Island of Akhtamar.—An Armenian Church.—History of the Convent.—Pass into Mukus.—TheDistrict of Mukus—of Shattak—of Nourdooz.—A Nestorian Village.—Encampments.—Mount Ararat.—Mar Shamoun.—Julamerik.—Valley ofDiz.—Pass into Jelu.—Nestorian District of Jelu.—An ancient Church.—The Bishop.—District of Baz—of Tkhoma.—Return to Mosul[337]
[CHAPTER XX.]
Discoveries at Kouyunjik during the Summer.—Description of the Sculptures.—Capture of Cities on a great River.—Pomp of AssyrianKing.—Alabaster Pavement.—Conquest of Tribes inhabiting a Marsh.—Their Wealth.—Chambers with Sculptures belonging to a newKing.—Description of the Sculptures.—Conquest of the People of Susiana.—Portrait of the King.—His guards and Attendants.—The Cityof Shushan.—Captive Prince.—Musicians.—Captives put to the Torture.—Artistic Character of the Sculptures.—An InclinedPassage.—Two small Chambers.—Colossal Figures.—More Sculptures[356]
[CHAPTER XXI.]
Preparations for leaving Nineveh.—Departure for Babylon.—Descent of the River.—Tekrit.—The State of the Rivers ofMesopotamia.—Commerce upon them.—Turkish Roads.—The Plain of Dura.—The Naharwan.—Samarrah.—Kadesia.—PalmGroves.—Kathimain.—Approach to Baghdad.—The City.—Arrival.—Dr. Ross.—A British Steamer.—ModernBaghdad.—Tel Mohammed.—Departure for Babylon.—A Persian Prince.—Abde Pasha’s Camp.—Eastern Falconry.—Hawking theGazelle.—Approach to Babylon.—The Ruins.—Arrival at Hillah[372]
[CHAPTER XXII.]
The Chiefs of Hillah.—Present of Lions.—The Son of the Governor.—Description of the Town.—Zaid.—The Ruins ofBabylon.—Changes in the Course of the Euphrates.—The Walls.—Visit to the Birs Nimroud.—Description of the Ruin.—View fromit.—Excavations and Discoveries in the Mound of Babel.—In the Mujelibé or Kasr.—The Tree Athelé.—Excavationsin the Ruin of Amran.—Bowls, with Inscriptions in Hebrew and Syriac Characters.—The Jews of Babylonia[392]
[CHAPTER XXIII.]
State of the Ruins of Babylon.—Cause of the Disappearance of Buildings.—Nature of original Edifices.—Babylonian Bricks.—TheHistory of Babylon.—Its Fall.—Its Remarkable Position.—Commerce.—Canals and Roads.—Skill of Babylonians in the Arts.—EngravedGems.—Corruption of Manners, and consequent Fall of the City.—The Mecca Pilgrimage.—SheikhIbn Reshid.—The Gebel Shammar.—The Mounds of El Hymer—of Anana[419]
[CHAPTER XXIV.]
Ruins in Southern Mesopotamia.—Departure from Hillah.—Sand-Hills.—Villages in the Jezireh.—Sheikh Karboul.—Ruins.—FirstView of Niffer.—The Marshes.—Arab Boats.—Arrive at Souk-el-Afaij.—Sheikh Agab.—Town of the Afaij.—Description of the Ruins ofNiffer.—Excavations in the Mounds.—Discovery of Coffins—of various Relics.—Mr. Loftus’ Discoveries at Wurka.—The ArabTribes.—Wild Beasts.—Lions.—Customs of the Afaij.—Leave the Marshes.—Return to Baghdad.—A Mirage[437]
[CHAPTER XXV.]
Preparations for Departure.—Sahiman.—Plunder of his Camels.—Leave Baghdad.—Journey through Mesopotamia.—Early Arab Remains.—TheMedian Wall.—Tekrit.—Horses stolen.—Instances of Bedouin Honesty.—Excavations at Kalah Sherghat.—Reach Mosul.—Discoveries duringAbsence.—New Chambers at Kouyunjik.—Description of Bas-reliefs.—Extent of the Ruins explored.—Bases of Pillars.—Small objects.—RomanCoins struck at Nineveh.—Hoard of Denarii.—Greek Relics.—Absence of Assyrian Tombs.—Fragment with Egyptian Characters.—AssyrianRelics.—Remains beneath the Tomb of Jonah.—Discoveries at Shereef-Khan—at Nimroud.—Assyrian Weights.—Engraved Cylinders[463]
[CHAPTER XXVI.]
Results of the Discoveries to Chronology and History.—Names of Assyrian Kings in the Inscriptions.—A Date fixed.—The Name of Jehu.—TheObelisk King.—The earlier Kings—Sardanapalus.—His Successors.—Pul, or Tiglath Pileser.—Sargon.—Sennacherib.—Essarhaddon.—Thelast Assyrian Kings.—Tables of proper Names in the Assyrian Inscriptions.—Antiquity of Nineveh.—Of the Name of Assyria.—Illustrationsof Scripture.—State of Judæa and Assyria compared.—Political Condition of the Empire.—Assyrian Colonies.—Prosperity of theCountry.—Religion.—Extent of Nineveh.—Assyrian Architecture—Compared with Jewish.—Palace of Kouyunjik restored.—Platform atNimroud restored.—The Assyrian fortified Inclosures.—Description of Kouyunjik.—Conclusion[491]