There are two tribunals at Nijenei, one that concerns the governments, and the other takes cognizance of all mercantile disputes. The magistrate who presides in the latter, is a kind of burgomaster, subject to the orders of the gorodnitch, or governor of the town. We have already seen that each of these jurisdictions holds from the tribunal of Okotsk, to the governor of which it is accountable for all its proceedings.
But what most interested me at Nijenei, and what I cannot pass over in silence, was my finding there nine Japanese, who had been brought thither in the preceding summer, from the Aleutienne islands, by a Russian vessel employed in the trade of otter skins.
One of the Japanese informed me, that he and his companions had embarked in a ship of their own country, with an intention of visiting the more southern Kurilles islands, for the purpose of trading with the inhabitants. They directed their course along the coast, and were at a small distance from it, when they were overtaken by a violent gale, which carried them out to sea, and deprived them of all knowledge where they were. According to his account, which however I did not altogether believe, they beat about in the ocean for near six months without seeing land; of course they must have had a plentiful stock of provisions. At length they discerned the Aleutienne islands, and transported with joy, they determined to make for that coast, without well knowing in what part of the world it was. They accordingly cast anchor near one of the islands, and a small shallop brought them to land. At this place they found certain Russians, who proposed to them to unlade their vessel, and remove it to a place of security; but either from suspicion, or perhaps that they thought the next day would be early enough, the Japanese peremptorily refused. They had soon occasion to repent of their negligence. That very night there arose a strong gale, during which their ship stranded; and as this was not discovered till break of day, they had the utmost difficulty to save a small part of the cargo, and some pieces of the vessel, which had been almost entirely constructed of cedar. The Russians, who had before treated them with civility, now exerted every effort in their power to make these unfortunate people forget their loss. They at length persuaded them to accompany them to Kamtschatka, whither they were bound upon their return. My Japanese added, that they had at first been much more numerous, but that the fatigues of the sea, and afterwards the rigour of the climate, had taken off many of his companions.
My informer appeared to have over his eight countrymen a very distinguished superiority; and he informed us that he was himself a merchant, and the rest only sailors under his command. Certain it is, that they entertain for him a singular veneration and friendship. They are penetrated with grief, and shew the greatest uneasiness when he is indisposed, or the least unfavourable accident has befallen him. They regularly send twice a day one of their body to wait upon him. His friendship for them may be said not to be less; not a day passes without his visiting them, and he employs the greatest care that they should be in want of nothing. His name is Kodaïl: his figure has nothing in it singular, and is even agreeable; his eyes do not project like those of the Chinese; his nose is long, and he has a beard which he frequently shaves. He is about five feet in stature, and is tolerably well made. At first he wore his hair in the Chinese fashion; that is, he had a single lock depending from the middle of his head, the rest of his hair round it being close shaved; but he has lately been persuaded to let it grow, and to tie it after the French fashion. He is extremely apprehensive of cold, and the warmest garments given him are scarcely able to save him from it. Under these he constantly wears the dress of his country: this consists in the first place of one or more long chemises of silk, like our dressing gowns; and over these he wears one of woollen, which seems to imply that this sort of materials is more precious in their estimation than silk. Perhaps however the circumstance arises from some motive of convenience, of which I am ignorant. The sleeves of this garment are long and open; and, in spite of the rigour of the climate, he has constantly his arms and his neck uncovered. They put a handkerchief about his neck when he goes abroad, which he takes off as soon as he enters a house, being, as he says, unable to support it.
His superiority over his countrymen was calculated to make him be distinguished; but this circumstance has less weight than the vivacity of his temper and the mildness of his disposition. He lodges and eats at the house of major Orleankoff. The freedom with which he enters the house of the governor and other persons, would among us be thought insolent, or at least rude. He immediately fixes himself as much at his ease as possible, and takes the first chair that offers; he asks for whatever he wants, or helps himself, if it be within his reach. He smokes almost incessantly; his pipe is short, and ornamented with silver; he puts into it a very small quantity of tobacco, which he renews every moment. To this habit he is so much addicted, that it was with difficulty they could persuade him to part with his pipe even at meals. He is possessed of great penetration, and apprehends with admirable readiness every thing you are desirous to communicate. He has much curiosity, and is an accurate observer. I was assured that he kept a minute journal of every thing he saw, and all that happened to him. Indeed the objects and the customs he has an opportunity to observe, have so little resemblance to those of his country, that every thing furnishes him with a subject of remark. Attentive to whatever passes, or is said in his presence, he puts it into writing, for fear of forgetting it. His characters appeared to me considerably to resemble the Chinese, but the form of writing is different, these writing from right to left, and the Japanese from the top of the page to the bottom. He speaks Russian with sufficient ease to make himself understood; you must however be used to his pronunciation to converse with him, as he delivers himself with a volubility that frequently obliges you to miss something he says, or apprehend it in a wrong sense. His repartees are in general sprightly and natural. He employs no concealment or reserve, but tells with the utmost frankness what he thinks of every one. His company is agreeable, and his temper tolerably even, though with a considerable tendency to suspicion. Does he miss any thing? he instantly imagines that it has been stolen from him, and discovers anxiety and disquietude. His sobriety is admirable, and perfectly contrasts with the manners of this country. When he has determined to drink no strong liquor, it is impossible to induce him so much as to taste it; when he is inclined, he asks for it of his own accord, but never drinks to excess. I observed also, that, after the manner of the Chinese, in eating he made use of two little sticks, which he handled with great dexterity.
I requested to see some of the coin of his country, and he readily gratified my curiosity. The gold coin was a thin plate of an oval form, and of about two inches in its longest diameter. It is marked with various Japanese characters, and it appeared to be of pure gold, without any alloy, so that it readily bent in any manner you pleased. Their silver money is square, smaller, thinner, and lighter than that of gold; he however assured me that at Japan this was the superior coin. The copper coin is precisely the same as the cache of the Chinese: it is round, and nearly of the size of our two liard pieces, with a square perforation in the middle.
I asked him some questions respecting the nature of the merchandize they had saved from their wreck, and I understood, from his answer, that it consisted chiefly in cups, plates, boxes, and other commodities of that sort, with a very fine varnish. I afterwards found they had sold a part of them at Kamtschatka.
I trust I shall be forgiven this digression upon these Japanese; I can scarcely imagine that it will be thought impertinent; it will assist us in becoming acquainted with a nation that we have scarcely an opportunity to see and observe.
Having spent three days at Nijenei Kamtschatka, I left it 12 February at one o'clock in the afternoon, to meet M. Kasloff, whom I was sure of finding at Yelofki. My road for some time was the same as I had already travelled in going to Nijenei, and I arrived at Tchoka early in the evening. A strong westerly wind almost always prevails in this place. The situation of the ostrog sufficiently accounts for it, which is upon a river that runs between two chains of mountains that stretch along its banks to the distance of twenty five wersts.