“Between Tsingtau and Nagasaki,
on board the s.s 'Sibiria.’
“March 18th, 1901.
“Our s.s. Sibiria had arrived in the harbour about ten days ago, and was now ready for our use. I had decided first of all to make a trip up the Yang-tse-Kiang on board the Sibiria, because I wanted to get to know this important river, which flows through such a fertile tract of country, and on the banks of which so many of the busiest cities of China are situated. The Yangtse—as it is usually called for shortness’ sake—is navigable for very large-sized ocean-going steamers for a several days’ journey. During the summer months it often happens that the level of the water in its upper reaches rises by as much as 50 feet, which—on account of the danger of the tremendous floods resulting from it—has made it necessary to pay special attention to the laying-out of the cities situated on its banks. The object of our journey was Nanking. This city, which was once the all-powerful capital of the Celestial Empire, has never again reached its former importance since its destruction during the great revolution of 1862, and since the choice of Peking as the residence of the Imperial family. Two years ago it was thrown open to foreign commerce; and the Powers immediately established their consulates in the city, not only because a new era of development is looked forward to, but also because Nanking is the seat of a viceroy.
“Our amiable consul, Herr v. Oertzen, received us with the greatest hospitality. The German colony which he has to look after consists of only one member so far. This young gentleman, who holds an appointment in connexion with the Chinese customs administration, feels, as is but natural, quite happy in consequence of enjoying a practical monopoly of the protection extended to him by the home government. He has helped himself to the consul’s cigars and to his moselle to such good effect that the Sibiria arrived just in time to prevent the German colony at Nanking from lodging a complaint regarding the insufficiency of the supplies put at its disposal by the Government. The consul told us that we should never have a chance of coming across another Chinese town that could compare with the interior of Nanking, and so we had to make up our minds to pay a visit to these parts.
“I had seen plenty of dirt and misery at Jaffa and Jerusalem, but I have never found so much filth and wretchedness anywhere as I noticed at Nanking. My wife and a charming young lady who accompanied us on our Yangtse expedition were borne in genuine sedan chairs as used for the mandarins, preceded by the interpreter of the consulate, and followed by the rest of us, who were riding on mules provided with those typically Chinese saddles, which, owing to their hardness, may justly claim to rank among the instruments of torture.
“Our procession wended its way through a maze of indescribably narrow streets crowded with a moving mass of human beings and animals. Everywhere cripples and blind men lay moaning in front of their miserable hovels, and it almost seemed that there were more people suffering from some disease or other than there were healthy ones. When we stopped outside the big temple of Confucius, where the ladies of our party dismounted from their chairs, the people, in spite of their natural timidity, flocked to see us, because they had probably never seen any European ladies until then. We were thankful when at last we reached the consulate building again, and when, after having had a good bath, we are able to enjoy a cup of tea.
“ ... In the early hours of March 13th our steamer arrived at Tsingtau. I was surprised and delighted with what I saw. There, in spite of innumerable difficulties, a city had sprung up in an incredibly short space of time.
“Rooms had been reserved for us at the handsome, but very cold, Hotel Prinz Heinrich; and in the afternoon of the day of our arrival we strolled up the roads, which were still somewhat dusty, and in parts only half finished, to the summit of the hill where the acting Governor and the officers of higher rank had their homes. Even though it is true that up to now military necessities have taken precedence in the laying-out of the town, so that the needs of trade and traffic have not received due attention, it must be admitted that a wonderful piece of constructive work has been achieved. All the members of our party—especially those who, like Dr. Knappe, our consul-general at Shanghai, had known the place two years ago—were most agreeably surprised at the progress that had been made.
“Our first few days at Tsingtau were spent much as they were everywhere else—plenty of work during the day-time, and plenty of social duties in the evenings. But things began to look different on Saturday morning, when my old friend and well-wisher, Field-Marshal Count Waldersee, arrived on board H.M.S. Kaiserin Auguste. He had announced that his arrival would take place at 9 A.M., and his flagship cast anchor with military punctuality. The Governor and I went on board to welcome the old gentleman, who was evidently greatly touched at meeting me out here, and it was plain to see that my presence in this part of the world made him almost feel homesick. The Field-Marshal very much dislikes the restrictions imposed on his activities; and judging from all he told me, I must confess that a great military leader has hardly ever before been faced with a more thankless task than he. On the one hand he is handicapped through the diplomatists, and on the other through the want of unanimity among the Powers. Thus, instead of fulfilling the soldier’s task with which he is entrusted, he is compelled to waste his time in idleness, and to preside at endless conferences at which matters are discussed dealing with the most trivial questions of etiquette. He really deserves something better than that....”
“Tokio. March 31st, 1901.