The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made with whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, finocchi, tomato, and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each mouthful of the mixture.

Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese)

Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very thin and cut in 2-inch squares.

Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless currents.

Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to make little pockets.

Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst open.

Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a sprinkling of bread crumbs.

This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes.