[Climate.]—Hyères is especially fitted for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened constitutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyères is not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.” —Dr. Edwin Lee. The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F., and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice; and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that disease.”
THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS.
The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m. south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La Pauline station is [Mont Coudon] (see p. 128, and [map p. 129]).
[ Giens. Saltworks. Le Château.]
8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for [La Plage], consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the Zephyr sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to [Porquerolles] (p. 131). The beach adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254. At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite (p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and sandy, skirts [large square basin-like marshes], where salt is made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south
end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of [Le Château], with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quantities of uni- and bivalve shells are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks.
From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of La Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can be had on the isthmus.
After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing station of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at
Les Salins. Pomponiana.
[Les Salins], 18 m. from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus from Hyères to Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier. Fare, ½ fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of sea-water principally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of the value of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or busy season 300 (see [map, p. 129]).