The South of France—East Half

by C. B. Black

Coach to Carqueyranne, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of [Pomponiana], some fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the little port is about ½ m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the port, but passes through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3½° warmer than Hyères.

Bormes.

[Coach to Bormes], 14½ m. E. from Hyères. The coach, after passing the ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In the Place de la République or St. François is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side of the “Place” is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour’s easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous fishing village on the coast road from Brégançon to St. Tropez. Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see [map, p. 123]).

MARSEILLES
MENTON 49 106 [LA PAULINE], a few houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont Coudon. Junction with line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have missed the train for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café below. From La Pauline the train arrives at [Solliès-Pont], pop. 3000; Inns: Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on a steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the side of the hill. Inn: Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for Collobrières (see [p. 130]).

Carnoules.

MARSEILLES
MENTON 63½ 91½ [CARNOULES.] Inn: H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m. N.W., on the line between Marseilles and Aix.

Gardanne. Barjols.

[ Gardanne to Carnoules.]

[Gardanne], pop. 3100. H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from Marseilles and 7 m. S. from [Aix] (see p. 77). On this line, 16 m. N.W. from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is [Brignoles], pop. 6000, on the Carami. Inns: Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather dirty town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are first carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed. They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church,

13th cent., is in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse, was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, now the Sous Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. In the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments. Diligence daily to [Barjols], 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont d’Or; situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses ([p. 167]). Diligence also to Toulon by [Meounes] (see p. 129).