“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they left their own country—the recovery of their health. This appeared to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.
“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called ‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was counteracted by the operation of these causes.” —Sir James Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate.
SEE [MAP PAGE 27], AND [MAP ON FLY-LEAF].
Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay at some of the baths, such as [Vichy] (p. 359), [Vals] (p. 93), [Mont-Dore] (p. 378), [Bourboule] (p. 383), [Aix-les-Bains] (p. 283), [Bourbon-l’Archambault] (p. 357), or [Bourbon-Lancy] (p. 358). If at the eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from Savona (pp. [209] and [183]), or from Genoa (pp. [212] and [279]) to [Turin] (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to [Torre-Pèllice] (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian valleys.
If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, a halt may be made for the night at [Modane] (p. 290); where, however, on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp and bracing.
From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the baths is by the valley of the Rhône ([map, p. 27]), in which there are many places of great interest, such as [Arles] (p. 68), [Avignon] (p. 58), [Orange] (p. 51), and [Lyons] (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch by [Montbrison] (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by [Ambérieux] (p. 281) and [Culoz] (p. 282). From Avignon, [Carpentras] (p. 54), Pont-St. [Esprit] (p. 98), [Montélimart] (p. 48), La [Voulte] (p. 82), [Crest] (p. 46) and [Grenoble] (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont [Ventoux] (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, [Ardechè] (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres (pp. [47] and [345]). From Grenoble the roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.
None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.
The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; “café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a gratuity.
Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others 2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary Information.”
C. B. B.