Item for making of a Douche gowne for her of blew damaske chekered, the bodyes lyned with fustyan, the pleight lyned with cotton and buckram.
Item, for making of a kirtle for her all of white satten fringed with copper silver, the bodyes lyned with lynnen clothe and the skertes with cotton.
Item, for making of a kirtle for her of red vared silke lyned with lynnen and cotton cloth.
Item for making of a peticoate for her all of red cloth.
Item for making of a Frenche gowne for the Ladye Margaret Clifford of purple satten, etc.
It is a pity that the cost of the items is not given in this series of papers, but it is evident that there is no distinction of quality between the dress of Jane, and that of the great ladies of the Court, though there is sometimes in the colours or combinations, and generally in the shape. Jane seems to have worn Dutch gowns, and the courtiers French gowns, but the material is as good for Jane as for them and the number of garments greater.
The gentleman alluded to as Jane’s Valentine was probably one of the sons of Sir Percival Hart, who are recorded as performing then a device of their own before the Queen at Court.
This fact seems to suggest that Jane mingled with the other courtiers on a somewhat equal footing. As to what “a Valentine” really implied we cannot be sure, but it seems to have been normally conducted by an annual casting of lots. In Mary’s privy purse expenses there is an illustrative entry: “Item geven to George Mountjoye drawing my Lady Grace to his Valentyne.” And in the list of the Princess’s jewels is another: “Item, a Broche of gold enamyled blacke with an agaite of the story of Abraham with foure small rockt rubies,” while at the margin is added “Geven to Sir Antony Browne drawing her Grace to his Valentyne.”
At the foot of each page is the signature “Marye,” showing that the Princess had passed the entries. In the autumn of the year 1 and 2 Philip and Mary 17th October, the Queen being at Westminster, issued her warrants (427, 11. Exchequer Accounts):
Item to the said Marie Wilkinson our Silkewoman for one rich robe lace of purple silk & gold for his saide Majestie, wrought very richly with taffeta.