The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the third time into the apparatus and, after adding 3½ quarts of alcohol for every 2 lbs. of pomade, subjected to the same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. After thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade, the latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely melted upon the water-bath. The vessel containing the melted pomade is placed in a cool cellar and, if after complete cooling, a liquid appears upon the surface, it is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when preparing, the next time, extract No. 1 from the same kind of pomade. In this manner, an extract No. 1 of still greater strength is obtained, and by treating the pomade three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted. The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh fat, be used for ordinary hair pomades.
Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat laborious and requires great care, it nevertheless pays the perfumer.
Fig. 26.
Beyer frères, of Paris, have essentially improved the extracting apparatus previously described, the improvement being shown in Fig. 26. The cylinders A and A1 are of copper tinned inside; the lids close air-tight; above the cocks f and f1 a perforated piece of tin is placed in the interior of the cylinders; upon this piece of tin a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract be drawn off clear. In order to reduce the pomade to a finely divided state, and thus bring it in contact with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli press, h, placed upon the cylinder A1. The pomade passes, in the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower portion of the press into the alcohol contained in the cylinders. The press can be transferred from one extracting vessel to the other. The shafts a and a1 also have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig. 25. Through the contrivances d and d1, sitting upon the shaft c, the shafts a and a1, receive a revolving as well as an up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of pomade and alcohol is effected. By this arrangement the pomade completely yields its perfume to the alcohol in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it has the further advantage that the extracts are of better quality in consequence of not remaining for so long a time in contact with the fat.
Tinctures and Extracts. In the following pages receipts for the preparation of the principal tinctures and extracts used in the preparation of Extraits, as well as in other branches of perfumery, fumigating pastils and powders, dentifrices, mouth-waters, and cosmetics, will be given. The tinctures are prepared from the resins and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom. Besides these there are employed for the purpose several spices, leaves, roots, and seeds—such as musk-seeds, angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, musk-root or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc.
Most of these substances, if not already found in commerce in the form of a powder, are, before extraction, pulverized, or at least comminuted as much as possible. For a better view the treatment of each substance is given with the respective receipt. The infusions should be stored in a moderately warm room, and thoroughly shaken several times every day. When extraction is finished the product is filtered through paper and is then called tincture or extract.
The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh and genuine, and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since a perfect tincture can only be obtained under these conditions. For the preparation of tinctures Beyer frères have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27 and 28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation produced by means of such an apparatus extraction is effected much more rapidly and more completely than by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary bottles and by shaking with the hand.
Fig. 27.
