The alcoholic perfumes, also called "Extraits d'Odeurs," are divided into flower-odors, "Extraits aux fleurs," and into compound odors, "Bouquets." The extracts of French flower pomades form the foundation of all Extraits d'Odeurs, all other additions serving the purpose of rendering these odors more pronounced and durable. Hence the art of the perfumer consist in attaining this object as perfectly as possible by the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. If, for instance, the flower-odor jasmine is to be prepared, it would not be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for the purpose, since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not understand how to prevent it. To prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent, to retain it or to fix it, extracts of various perfume-materials, known as tinctures or extracts are used.
The method of preparing the flower-pomades in France has already been described on p. 58 et seq. It need here only be added that, according to their quality, these pomades are designated by different numbers by the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, which by some manufacturers are designated as No. 6, No. 18, and No. 30; and by others as No. 12, No. 24 and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 and No. 24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. Pomades No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the preparation of extracts, they containing but little actual extract of flowers, and are generally mixtures touched up with volatile oils. They are almost exclusively used for hair pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or No. 24 is the quality generally employed by the perfumer for alcoholic extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the strongest, and, hence, most expensive flower-pomade, and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers for the finest qualities of Extraits d'Odeurs.
When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower pomades do not possess the fine odor of the respective flowers, the full aroma being developed only after about six months. The tin-canisters containing them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five years, with the exception of jasmine and tuberose, which keep only for about two years.
In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades is effected, we will take, as an example, 2 lbs. of French flower-pomade No. 18 and 3½ quarts of best alcohol.[14] This proportion yields a good and sufficiently strong extract for the preparation of Extraits d'Odeurs. It must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting apparatus, 8 lbs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of alcohol being, for instance, taken, though that depends on the quantity of the respective extract required by the perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus should be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but little air.
The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades is best effected in a special apparatus, one of the simplest kind for the purpose being shown at Fig. 25.
Fig. 25.
It consists of two cylinders, A and A1 of stout sheet-iron provided with well-fitting lids. Through the centre of each lid passes a vertical iron shaft a and a1 which carries in the interior of the apparatus several horizontal arms b, b1, b2. These vertical shafts can be rapidly revolved by the horizontal shaft c. Before bringing the flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in the water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions, should exceed 88.25° F. The alcohol is also heated to 88.25° F. and added to the melted pomade in the apparatus. The arms with which the vertical shaft is provided, keep the mass in the apparatus in constant motion and prevent the pomade from settling on the bottom. The apparatus is arranged to be driven either by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a pulley, being in the first case provided at g.
Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his disposal, the apparatus may be connected with the transmission and allowed to run for 48 to 60 hours during working time. After the expiration of this time, proceed to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as follows: Over a clean tin vessel stretch a close, white linen cloth, and pour the entire contents of the apparatus upon the latter; the liquid portion runs through the cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains behind upon the cloth. Finally, the cloth is thoroughly wrung out in order to obtain as much alcoholic extract from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. 1, thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a cool cellar for about 48 hours, and then filter it through paper into another glass bottle. This filtering through paper is necessary, even if the extract should appear clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small particles of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in the extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these particles of fat are separated and appear as white flakes on the bottom and sides of the flask. At a higher temperature, these flakes melt and appear as drops of oil on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted, these particles of fat would be transferred to the extracts and thus cause stains upon handkerchiefs, clothing, etc. If the manufacturer has not a cool cellar at his disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated by placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and filtering immediately after separation is complete. The fat then remains upon the filter.
The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is, without being previously melted, returned to the apparatus, and, after adding the same quantity of alcohol (3½ quarts to every 2 lbs. of pomade), the mixture is again worked as previously described. The straining off and filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same manner as extract No. 1.