———
| PAGE | |
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
|---|---|
Departure from Cordoba—Post Road to Cadiz—Carlota—Ecija—Carmona—Roadfrom Ecija to Gibraltar—Locusts—Osuna—Saucejo—AnOlla in perfection—Ronda—Splendid Sceneryon the road to Grazalema—Distant View of Zahara—Grazalema—ExtensiveProspect from the Pass of Bozal—Secluded Orchardsof Benamajama—Pajarete—El Broque—Ubrique—DifficultRoad across the Mountains to Ximena—Our Guide in a rage—FineScenery—Ximena—Strength of its Castle—Road toGibraltar | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
Departure for Cadiz—Road round the Bay of Gibraltar—Algeciras—SandyBay—Gualmesi—Tarifa—Its Foundation—Errorof Mariana in supposing it to be Carteia—Battle of ElSalado—Mistake of La Martiniere concerning it—Itineraryof Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified—Continuation ofJourney—Ventas of Tavilla and Retin—Vejer—Conil—SpanishMethod of Extracting Good from Evil—Tunny Fishery—Barrosa—Fieldof Battle—Chiclana—Road to Cadiz—PuenteZuazo—San Fernando—Temple of Hercules—Castleof Santi Petri—Its Importance to Cadiz | [33] |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
Cadiz—Its Foundation—Various Names—Past Prosperity—Madea Free Port in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar—UnjustRestrictions on the Commerce of the British Fortress—Descriptionof Cadiz—Its vaunted Agremens—Society—MonotonousLife—Cathedral—Admirably built Sea Wall—NavalArsenal of La Carraca—Road to Xeres—Puerto Real—Puertode Santa Maria—Xeres—Its Filth—Wine Stores—Methodof Preparing Wine—Doubts of the Ancient andDerivation of the Present Name of Xeres—Carthusian Convent—Guadalete—Battleof Xeres | [64] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
Choice of Roads to Seville—By Lebrija—Mirage—The Marisma—PostRoad—Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios—Difficultyof Reconciling any of these Routes with that of theRoman Itinerary—Seville—General Description of the City—TheAlameda—Display of Carriages—Elevation of the Host—PublicBuildings—The Cathedral—Lonja—American Archives—Alcazar—CasaPilata—Royal Snuff Manufactory—CannonFoundry—Capuchin Convent—Murillo—Theatre of Seville—Observationson the State of the National Drama—Moratin—TheBolero—Spanish Dancing—The Spaniards not a MusicalPeople | [90] |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
Society of Seville—Spanish Women—Faults of Education—Evilsof Early Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance—Environsof Seville—Triana—San Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce—Ruinsof Italica—Italica not so ancient a City as Hispalis—YoungPigs and the Muses—Departure from Seville—TheMarques De Las Amarillas—Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice ofthe Late King of Spain—Alcala De Guadiara—Utrera—Observationson the Strategical Importance of this Town—Moron—Militaryoperations of Riego—Apathy of the Serranos duringthe Civil War—Olbera—Remarks on the Itinerary of Antoninus | [123] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
Ronda to Gaucin—Road to Casares—Difficulty in ProcuringLodgings—Finally Overcome—The Cura’s House—View of theTown from the Ruins of the Castle—Its Great Strength—AncientName—Ideas of the Spaniards regarding Protestants—Scrambleto the Summit of the Sierra Cristellina—SplendidView—Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of Sketching—TheCura and his Barometer—Departure for the Baths ofManilba—Romantic Scenery—Accommodation for Visiters—TheMaster of the Ceremonies—Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar—RiverGuadiaro and Venta | [154] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
The Baths of Manilba—A Specimen of Fabulous History—Propertiesof the Hedionda—Society of the Bathing Village—RemarkableMountain—An English Botanist—Town of Manilba—AnIntrusive Visiter—Ride to Estepona—Return by way ofCasares | [179] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
A Shooting Party to the Mountains—Our Italian Piqueur, DamienBerrio—Some Account of his Previous Life—Los Barrios—TheBeautiful Maid, and the Maiden’s Levelling Sire—Road toSanona—Reparation against Bandits—Arrival at the Caseria—Descriptionof its Owner and Accommodations—Fine Scenery—ABatida | [202] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
Luis de Castro | [226] |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
Don Luis’s Narrative is interrupted by a Boar—The Batida resumed—Departurefrom Sanona—Road to Casa Vieja—ThePriest’s House—Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants—Departurefrom Casa Vieja—Alcala De Los Gazules—Road toXimena—Return to Gibraltar | [249] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
Departure for Madrid—Cordon drawn round the Cholera—Ronda—Roadto Cordoba—Teba—Erroneous Position of the Place onthe Spanish Maps—Its Locality agrees with that of Ategua, asdescribed by Hirtius, and the Course of the River Guadaljorcewith that of the Salsus—Road to Campillos—The English-lovingInnkeeper and his Wife—An Alcalde’s Dinner spoilt—FuenteDe Piedra—Astapa—Puente Don Gonzalo—Rambla—Cordoba—Meetingwith an old Acquaintance | [267] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
History of Blas El Guerrillero—continued | [294] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid—Death of KingFerdinand—Change in our Plans—Road to Andujar—Alcolea—Montoro—Porcuna—Andujar—Arjono—TorreXimeno—Difficulty of Gaining Admission—Success of a Stratagem—Consternationof the Authorities—Spanish Adherence toForms—Contrasts—Jaen—Description of the Castle, City,and Cathedral—La Santa Faz—Road to Granada—OurKnightly Attendant—Parador de San Rafael—Hospitable Farmer—Astonishmentof the Natives—Granada—El Soto deRoma—Loja—Venta de Dornejo—Colmenar—Fine Scenery—Roadfrom Malaga to Antequera, and Description of that City | [325] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
Malaga—Excursion of Marbella and Monda—Churriana—Benalmania—Fuengirola—Discrepancyof Opinion respecting theSite of Suel—Scale to be adopted, in order to make the measurementsgiven in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with theActual Distance from Malaga to Carteia—Errors of Carter—Castleof Fuengirola—Road to Marbella—Tower and CasaFuertes—Disputed Site of Salduba—Description of Marbella—AbandonedMines—Distance to Gibraltar | [363] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain—Roadto Monda—Secluded Valley of Ojen—Monda—Discrepancy ofOpinion respecting the Site of the Roman City of Munda—Ideasof Mr. Carter on the Subject—Reasons adduced for concludingthat Modern Monda occupies the Site of the Ancient City—AssumedPositions of the Contending Armies of Cneius Pompeyand Cæsar, in the Vicinity of the Town—Road to Malaga—Townsof Coin and Alhaurin—Bridge over the Guadaljorce—Returnto Gibraltar—Notable Instance of the Absurdity ofQuarantine Regulations | [382] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
The Knight of San Fernando | [410] |
| [439] | |
E X C U R S I O N S
IN THE
MOUNTAINS
OF
RONDA AND GRANADA.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA—POST-ROAD TO CADIZ—CARLOTA—ECIJA—CARMONA—ROAD FROM ECIJA TO GIBRALTAR—LOCUSTS—OSUNA—SAUCEJO—AN OLLA IN PERFECTION—RONDA—SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO GRAZALEMA—DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA—GRAZALEMA—EXTENSIVE PROSPECT FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL—SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF BENAMAJAMA—PAJARETE—EL BROQUE—UBRIQUE—DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA—OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE—FINE SCENERY—XIMENA—STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE—ROAD TO GIBRALTAR.
ON leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses’ heads homewards, taking the arrecife, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow the direct Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road, agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary, which, as it runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to make it, placing Adaras (one of the intermediate stations) on the margin of the Guadalquivír.
Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way, are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple of Janus to the Bœtis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the mouth of the river) and to the ocean.
The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,[1] but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term post haste.
From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.[2] The road, on reaching the river Badajocillo, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge, commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of the Guadalquivír, and enters upon an undulated tract of country, that extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as, besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and Casa del Ayuntamiento,[3] and a Gasthof, which I can say, from personal experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself.