The day was most heavenly; and our ship, elegantly painted, and all her appointments in the highest order, formed in herself a most beautiful object. Every sail was set, and the breeze had just strength enough to enable her to overcome the force of the current. This occasional slowness of her motion, added to the majesty of her appearance, and one might almost have fancied that she herself was conscious of the compliments she was receiving from the mouths of the cannon of Europe and Asia.
The Turks at the Dardanelles always salute with ball, and the nearer they go to the vessel, the greater the compliment. Each fort fired seventeen guns; their cannon are monstrous, and the shot flying en ricochet along the smooth surface of the water across our bows, from Europe and Asia alternately, and throwing up the sand on the opposite shores, while shouts of applause from the admiring multitude, hailed us on our returning their salute, crowned this charming morning.
It was near dusk when we got to Galipoli, where the straits open into the sea of Marmora, and on the 15th of November we arrived here.
The approach to Constantinople by sea is thought superior to that of Naples, or Messina, and of course the finest in the world; we missed seeing it, by entering at night--a loss we hope to compensate on our departure.
Travellers in general express great disappointment when they get into the town; and in comparison of European capitals, the streets are certainly miserable, and the buildings in general but paltry; but as they are much superior to any I have seen in the Turkish dominions, I confess that they have exceeded my expectations.
Some of the Mosques are tolerable edifices, however different from our taste in the ornamental part of architecture. To these Christians are prohibited access; but the Turks, like other people, are not always proof against bribery. I have been shewn several, and among the rest, the celebrated one of St. Sophia, supposed to have been built by Constantine the Great. But in which I was very much disappointed. The dome only is tolerable. It is supported by two tier of columns of verde antique. From this style of architecture, and the value of the marble, one would expect a rich and elegant appearance, but the magnificent effect of the double tier of columns, is lost by the entablature being supported by arches, which reduces the columns to mere piers; and thus, in comparison of other works of the ancients, the design becomes poor and inelegant. The capitals are by no means chaste, and the architecture throughout is very indifferently executed.
The Navy Hospital, though small, would do credit to any nation; and some of the Grand Signior's summer palaces, constructed in the Chinese style, display an elegant neatness which could not be surpassed, even by that ingenious people. But the Seraglio, as far as I was admitted, has nothing to boast of. I have been through most parts of the first court on the inside, which contain the Mint, and some other public offices, and have once or twice been just within the gate of the Seraglio gardens; but to the inner court no common bribe will gain a Christian admittance, except when an Ambassador has an audience of the Sultan, and this happens but once during his residence; for Foreign Ministers transact no business with the Grand Signior in person, and never visit him but on their arrival, to deliver their credentials.
We are lucky enough to be here at such a moment, for the new Venetian Ambassador is to have his audience of introduction in a few days, and has promised to take me in his suite. On this occasion, I shall have the honor of dining with the Reis Effendi, and the other Grand Officers of State, in the interior part of the Seraglio.
I have already seen the Grand Signior several times, for he goes publicly to Mosque every Friday; and I attended the Prussian Envoy when he had his audience of the Caimacan, or acting Grand Vizir, from whom I had the honor of receiving a muslin handkerchief. It is not very fine, being only intended as a mark of amity, for the Turks strictly adhere to the Oriental custom of giving presents, and their government seems to retain much of its primitive institution. Civil and religious law, as in the days of the Patriarchs, form but one code. The Coran is the book, and the Mufti the head of both. Like the practice of earlier ages, also, he who rules the state in time of peace, leads her armies in time of war. Thus the Grand Vizir is at once Prime Minister, as well as Captain-General, and Commander in Chief of the forces. The police of the town resembles the discipline of a camp; the people retire at dusk, patroles are established, and in case of fire, or any other alarm, the Grand Signior himself, and all the Great Officers are immediately abroad. Were the Sovereign to neglect appearing on occasions of this kind, it would be thought as great a reflection on him, as if, as a General, he remained in his tent when his camp was attacked.
Immense as the Ottoman Empire is, the whole number of those troops that, from being constantly embodied, can be called regulars, amount to but about twenty-six thousand foot, and a few thousand horse. Among the former are a corps of Gardeners, (Bostangi) and another of Porters (Capigi) and these are part of the Sultan's body guards. The head gardener (Bostangi Bashaw) is, by virtue of his employment, Governor of all the forts on the Bosphorus, commonly called the Canal of the Black Sea, and the first of the Black Eunuchs, is also by his Office, Governor and Commander in Chief of the Seraglio, or Grand Palace and Citadel of Constantinople.