The canal, including its windings, is about twenty miles in length, and in most parts not more than a mile wide, which defends the capital against an attack by shipping from the Black Sea, whilst the Dardanelles, although an hundred miles distant, protect it against men of war from the Mediterranean. The last of these straits, at the points on which the old castles stand, are only about 1300 yards wide; and although they expand immediately, yet for the course of forty miles a ship can seldom be out of gunshot from one or other side.
A strong north wind blows all summer, which renders it impossible for vessels to force their way up at that season, and the current at all times sets so strong, that even with a fair wind, they must be exposed for several hours to a very hot fire. The castles are close to the water's edge; they have each two tier of guns, many of the lower carry balls of eighteen inches diameter, and when an enemy is in force in the Mediterranean, the whole extent of the Dardanelles is lined with batteries.
The town properly called Constantinople, is a kind of Peninsula, in the form of a triangle, one side of which is washed by the sea of Marmora, at the north end of which it stands; the second by the harbour, on which the canal opens; this side fronts the north, and, except the Seraglio, which forms the east salient angle, is entirely open. There is nothing towards the sea of Marmora, except a dead wall, the Turks trusting to the defences I have already mentioned, against an attack by sea. Neither do they seem more apprehensive on the third, or land side, for the ancient triple wall, which, by running across from the bottom of the harbour to the sea of Marmora, cuts the town from the country, is falling to decay. I found it to be near five miles in length, and the only part of it kept in repair, is the Castle of the Seven Towers, now converted into a state prison. English artillery would lay both it and the Seraglio in ashes in half an hour.
Besides the triangle I have just described, the populous towns of Pera, Galata, and Tophana, which run into each other on the opposite side of the harbour, are also included in what is commonly called Constantinople. Galata contains the dockyard and naval arsenal; Tophana the ordnance and foundry, and Pera is the residence of the Foreign Ministers. No part of these three towns have even a mud wall to defend them.
The Janizaries form the chief part of the standing army. They are still highly respected both by the court and the people, but have lost so much of their former consequence, that at the commencement of the present war, the Grand Vizir broke a whole chamber, or regiment of them, for showing a spirit of discontent. A severity, which though just, none of his predecessors, nor even the Sultans themselves dared ever attempt.
Abdoul Hamet, the Grand Signior, is upwards of sixty years old; but he possesses an engaging, benevolent countenance; and I like him the more from his attention to his wives; for although he may have as many of the most beautiful women as he pleases, yet he has attached himself to one. His happy favorite is now pregnant for the fourth time, and such is the attention paid her, that the vessels in the harbour are obliged to suspend the regular method of carrying on duty, and are not permitted to fire a musket, nor to strike the bell, nor even to give the word of command in a loud voice. By which you will perceive, that the invisible chains of the fair are as powerful in Turkey as in our blessed island; and that the rude Turk, and the generous Englishman, though different in manners, are alike sensible of the respect due to gentleness and beauty.
LETTER XXIX.
TO CAPTAIN SMITH.
Constantinople, Jan. 24th, 1789.