At four o'clock, yesterday afternoon, we got under way, in order to pay the King of Naples a visit at Castello Mare. We were becalmed all night; and his Majesty, being apprized of our approach, came out to meet us at day-break, this morning. He was in a man of war brig of fourteen guns, attended by another of the same force. As soon as he was within about two miles, he got into his barge, and, there being but little wind, rowed on board us. We received him with a royal salute.
His Majesty went all over the ship, praised every part of her, seemed much pleased, and, with a most engaging condescension, thanked us for the honor we did him, and invited the principal persons on board to dine at his casino. On leaving the ship, he was again saluted with twenty-one guns.
Immediately afterwards his Majesty sent the officers a present of some very fine fish of his own catching, and in the afternoon rowed out again to take another view of the ship.
Castello Mare is the King's dockyard. Every thing is in high order; but it is entirely defenceless, and does not give an Englishman a very formidable idea of the Neapolitan Navy.
There is a village adjoining, above which the King has built a small palace, or casino, in a most charming situation, with a full view of the bay. Here his Majesty generally spends great part of the summer, and enjoys his favorite amusements of fishing and shooting, water parties, and ship-building.
The King of Naples is thirty-six years old, well made, and rather tall; lean enough to enjoy all his diversions, of a fair complexion, light hair, and an affable, open countenance.
Notwithstanding the heavy taxes requisite to the support of his navy and army, he is adored by his subjects, from the confidence he reposes in them, and because, in affairs of state, he is always their champion. But if he has sometimes suffered his partiality for the Queen to get the better of his judgment, his people are sensible that love always predominates in the most generous breasts.
Her Majesty is a year younger than her husband. She is sister to the Emperor of Germany, and to the Queen of France, and is accused of being extremely ambitious, which the King's easy temper, by giving her the ascendency in politics, rather increases. In her youth she must have been amazingly handsome; for notwithstanding her having eight children living, there is still something very striking about her; and her charms, it is said, are as powerful as ever on the King. There is no believing half the stories one hears; and when they tend to scandal or immorality, it is unjust to repeat any on mere report.
In the evening we got under way, and with a light breeze sailed out of the Bay of Naples, between Capria and Cape Gampenela.
September 29th.