Becalmed on the coast of Salerno. Nothing can be more beautifully picturesque. From the water's edge to the tops of the mountains, not a vacant spot is to be seen. The whole face of the country is covered with vines, trees, and houses, mixed together in the prettiest confusion imaginable.
In the afternoon we landed; but the people being suspicious of us, we could not gain admittance to any of their houses for a considerable time. At length a priest, after having carefully examined us from his miranda, opened his doors, treated us with great hospitality, and laughed at the ignorance of his people.
September 30th.
The Island of Capria is still in sight. Passed the Bay of Salerno, and the wind being light and contrary, brought to off Pestum. Went on shore to examine the ruins.
This ancient city, which flourished before the foundation of Rome, was destroyed by the Goths on the decline of the Roman Empire, and in their zeal for the christian religion, these fierce barbarians overturned every place of Pagan worship exposed to their ravages.
The arch of the east gate of the town is still standing. But of a multitude of beautiful temples, not a column of any one is left, except of three, which being composed of common stone, the barbarians were satisfied with destroying the roofs. Two of these are close to each other. The one has nine columns in front, and eighteen on each side; the other has six by fourteen. Each of the columns is six feet in diameter, and the space between them is eight feet. Both of these temples are of the Doric order. The third is of the Corinthian. They are all three noble edifices, and the columns, with a great part of the entablature, are still perfect. Signor Pitelli, a painter whom we brought from Naples, is busily employed in taking plans of them.
The walls of the city are above two miles in circumference, and eighteen feet thick, and are easily traced, as well as the mole, which the sea by an earthquake has left dry.
In the middle of the town there was a famous amphitheatre, one hundred and twenty-eight feet in length. Enough of the ground work is left to give a just idea of its construction; and the entrance, with arched passages on each side for the wild beasts, is still tolerably perfect.
October 1st.
Signor Pitelli not having finished the plans, and the wind continuing contrary, we carried him on shore again to-day. Here, in a farm-house, amidst these ruins of antiquity, we saw the modern method of drying figs, and making raisins. The operation is very simple. Expose the fruit to the sun for eight or ten days, then bake it, and when packing up, sprinkle a little flour between the layers.