Pin: Take the 1⁄2 × 4 in. piece of stock. The end is heated and upset about 1⁄2 in. Place this end in a heading tool and work a button head on the end with either the cupping tool or a hand hammer. The pin should have a slot cut through it 2 ins. from the head. To do this make a punch to cut the slot the shape required. After the piece is marked punch the slot by driving the punch half way through on one side. Turn the piece over and drive the hole through on the other side. This enlarges the metal a little. Reduce it to the 1⁄2-in. size to fit the hole in the shackle. Cut a little piece of iron the thickness and width of the key, 1⁄2 in. long. Heat the end with the hole in and drive this drift into the slot. With 1⁄2 in. top and bottom swage and the drift in the slot, reduce the pin to fit the hole. Drive the drift out. You now have a nice rounded pin with a hole in, 3⁄8 × 1⁄8 in.
Key: Take a piece of 1 × 1⁄8 in. flat iron or steel. Mark the shape of the key. Cut it out and file to fit the slot. Drill holes in the small end of this to prevent it falling out of the pin.
Ring: Bend the piece of 3⁄16-in. wire around a 5⁄8-in. rod in the shape of a spiral and saw off each ring as required. The ring should fit the hole in the key. This method of making a shackle is the same whether the material is 1⁄4 in. in diameter or any size up to 2 ins. in diameter.
CROW-BARS, AND WELDING OF TOOL STEEL TO WROUGHT IRON
Crow-bar
Crow-bars are made by welding a piece of round No. 2 flat steel into the end of a wrought iron bar any length or any size, depending upon the use to which the bar is to be put when made. This drawing shows a bar for shifting rails for railroads. When the size is determined, select the wrought iron to be used. Upset the end and split it with a chisel 3⁄4 in. for a cleft weld. Re-heat the end to a white heat. Place it upon the edge of the anvil nearest you and with the peen of the hammer work the scarf out to a sharp point. Repeat on the other side. (See [picture].) Place the piece of steel selected for welding, in the fire; shape this end down to a sharp point at an angle of 45°. With the edge of the chisel placed on this scarf, strike on the top of the chisel with a sledge hammer. This will cut a nick and at the same time it raises up a sliver which will help hold the piece of steel in the iron between the cleft. Cool this scarf off in water until it is black hot. Heat the piece of iron (scarf end). Place the end of the steel scarf between the cleft and close the scarf on to the steel by striking gently. The steel will now stay in the end of the piece until it is welded. Place the scarf in the fire and when it is red hot cover it with borax. Get a welding heat on the wrought iron close to the joint first. Gradually work this heat toward the steel till the borax begins to burn, emitting a dark brown smoke. Take it out of the fire and place it on the anvil. One or two sharp blows on the end of the steel will drive it up into the crotch of the scarf. Now strike gently on the top of the scarf. Increase the force of the blows when you are sure the two pieces are welding together. If the pieces are not welding, which will be readily seen by the points of the scarf opening while working them down, place them again in the fire, put on borax and re-heat. A few trials will teach you how hot to get it for welding. Flatten down the end and shape it as shown in the drawing. Harden and temper the crow-bar as you would a cold chisel. If the point is not quite sharp enough grind it on the stone.
NAIL PULLER OR CLAW TOOL
This tool is made in much the same way as you make a crow bar. However, before bending the end up into a crow-bar shape, cut a slot in the end, as shown in the picture. Now bend it into shape. The handle should not be over 20 ins. in length and tapered usually from 3⁄4 in. at the large end to about 3⁄8 in. at the smaller end. The end is now flattened and a hole punched in it to hang it up when not in use. This is one of the handiest tools to have around any shop, not only as a nail and a bolt puller, but it may be used in place of the crow-bar. The drawing explains the various steps in the making of the tool.