Handbook on dress and cloak cutting

by Charles Hecklinger

Fig. 26.

FIG. 27. DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.

Fig. 27.

Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts—by the Proportionate System—by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11 three-fourths of an inch, and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 32 inches; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back is 1½ inch; Draw a line from 11 to 1½, and one from 1½ to F; make the width of back from 1½ to 2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch breast, and A is midway between these two points; draw lines over from A and B. From B to G is one-third of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of breast, or 4½ inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G, H and J, also down from J to N.

Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10; raise one-half inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V.

Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at 15.

In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.

Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips; also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 and 20. From S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1½ inch above the line S-18. Point 20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1½ inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches from 4 to 5; this should be shaped somewhat like draft.