From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from L to T. Curve the neck; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the length of shoulder from 10 to V on the front from I to U; shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at U one-half inch, and raise slightly above it at 12.
Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at 13 about one half inch.
Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at waist, going inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P at bottom.
In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the centre, between this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K to 1½, across the waist, measure the distance, taking out 1 inch between 2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the size of waist, 12 inches, from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches; from 9 to 8 is one dart; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths inch; from 7 to 6 is another dart of 2 inches. About 2½ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 and 6, nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N; at N it is one-half inch below straight line.
Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches at centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure.
To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body at 21, thence to N; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.
A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.
FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER.
Fig. 28.