A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. This collar should be well stretched with the hot iron, at the lower edge, before it is sewed on, in order that it may cling around the neck nicely. This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.
The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.
The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps.
For use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth, but it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton.
FIGS. 29 AND 30. NEWMARKET.
Fig. 29.
This style of Newmarket has only one dart. Proceed to make a full size draft in accordance with the directions. First draw a straight line O, and mark off the number of inches down from O, as given on the Figure; at these points draw lines across, and on these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed to draw each part of the garment.
