Now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13, and so that it will be placed as seen in Figure 35. Then carefully measure to see if the distance from K-H and to the back-line will be exactly one-halt and one-third of breast, or 27 inches. Then curve from 12 to 13 to 14 down the back and reducing it at the bottom about 4 inches from the position as it would be when the back is laid as stated.
Now by the length of the back regulate that of the front, and then sweep by the point of shoulder A from 10 to J. This latter point, and part of this round, as produced by the sweep, should be shortened about 1 inch. Curve the neck from A to B, and add 1 inch all along the front for a turn-in hem.
From where the back lies against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of sleeve head.
The upper part of the sleeve-head should be gathered-in considerable, and at O a notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in, for notch should be sewn on notch. ([See Figure 35.])
Fig. 34.
FIG. 35. CLOSED CIRCULAR.
After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it against the front and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For this shape, after the shoulders are seamed up, gather in the round of sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on the Figure, below E.
