Fig. 35.
A short cape, such as have been worn for some time in Europe, and are just making their appearance here, is cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist. This same wrap can be cut from a dolman pattern by laying the sleeve of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or till within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder, then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve.
If a line is drawn through the shoulder-point, next to the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back shoulder-point laid on this line and closing against the sleeve at blade, it will represent exactly this circular cape, and will be one of the easiest ways to make it. The Figure shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line from E forward, as it appears when lying in position.
These several wraps can be made of silk, and fur-lined, or they may be of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are handsome in shape and outline when correctly cut. As they are so different from the old circular they will be much sought after, because of the newness of design and that the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize with the increased prevalence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads.
FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. DOLMAN.
Draw a line O-H; from O, down, mark three-fourths of an inch. From O draw a short line over to 3, and make it 2½ inches. From O down to B is one-fourth of breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast. Point F is in the centre, between O and B; from ¾ to D is the length of the waist, and to H the full length of garment. Draw lines across at F, B and D. Between F and B, directly in the centre, make a mark C, and draw a line across.
Go in at the waist 1⅓ inch from line at D; draw line from ¾ to 1½ for the centre of back, and curve below D to H. From 1½, at waist, measure in to 4 3½ inches to 4 inches.
On line C make the width of back one-third of breast and one inch and draw a line up.