On the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and raise it one-half inch above 14; commencing there, exactly at the crossing of the lines, begin to curve past 16 and 4 to 1 at bottom. Having finished the back, first make a line across in the middle, between ¾ and F, from E over; next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular size, on 15 as when sewn in the arm-hole; holding it at 15, swing it down till the upper part of the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch below line E, at 13, and when in this position draw along the round of the sleeve, which will give exactly the round as shown on the Figure from 15, past 13, to 2.
Fig. 36.
Next, placing the width over from B on the back line, measure to 10, 24 inches, and curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches. Point G is about 12 inches below the waist, and from this place 1 inch more than one-quarter of the hips to 8, and draw from 6, which is one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9; then finish the curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. The front is constructed by drawing a line from O down the front edge or centre of front.
Fig. 37. Fig. 38.
From O over to shoulder point is one-sixth breast, the same down to 3; also go down one-eighth breast and draw a line across; curve the neck from ⅙ to 3, and apply the same width of shoulder as the back on the front, ⅙ to 10. From O down is one-half breast to E, there draw a line over to 8 and make last point, from E, one-fourth breast less 1 inch.
Measure the distance on the back, from B to H, and place it from E to P, then sweep the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives line P to K. Make the distance over from H to J one-quarter of the hips, and 1 to 1½, inch more; draw a line from K through J to L. Next measure the back from 6 to 9 and place the same from K up to L; curve arm-hole from 10 through 8 to L. Add 3 inches for a lap of double-breasted style; mark and space the buttons.