The under-sleeve is cut like the upper part from 2 to 10 and 11, like the outside curve. The inside curve from 2 to 7 is short, just as much as is needed to sew in the front—to find how much this should be we make a notch opposite 14 and one at 2, which is about 10 inches from 14. This measure, less 1 inch, is marked from 10 to 16, and at that point make another notch. What is left from 16 to L must be placed from 2 to 7, and this curve should be like curve on front. Lastly, draw a line from 7 to the star, which finishes the whole garment.
In order to draft a dolman pattern which will fit well and hang with a good balance the same manner of drafting as that which produces a good shaped sack should be used, then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as in a tight-fitting sack, and a dolman can then be cut as close as a sack, if so desired.
The manner of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in fact, just like a sack, the main difference being in the shape of the sleeve. The sleeve, even in the upper part, must be like an ordinary coat-sleeve, while the lower part may be any of the various shapes in fashion.
In drafting make a line to start on from O to F (Figure 37); from O down is three-fourths inch, and from O over to top line is 2¼ inches to 1. From O to B is one-fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size. Point D is in the middle, between O and B, and point 6 is in the middle, between O and D. From ¾, which is the top of the back, measure down to C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full length. Point E is 6 inches, or one-third of breast, below the waist-line at C. At all these points draw lines across. From B to H is one-third and 1 inch, equal, on 36 breast, to 7 inches; draw a line up to J; in the middle, between I, the point where the two lines cross and H, mark point K. At the waist-line go in from straight line C to 3 one and one-half inches, then draw line down from ¾ to 3 and from 3 to F. Also draw a straight line at right angles with waist-line from 3 to 6 at bottom.
Make the width at waist, from 3 to 4, about 3 inches, and draw also a line down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place from 7 to 8, and curve from 4 past 5 to 8.
Draw a line from I to 1, raise above I to J three-fourths inch, and curve the shoulder. Starting from J up upright line, curve back seam to 4 and 8; also mark a dim line from J past I, K to G, just like in a sack back—the dotted line shows that. Point G is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B.
Notice that the curve on the back, from C to 3, is a trifle outside of the straight line, and that below 3 it runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below E it curves outside again to F.
Fig. 39.