The inside seam from J past breast-line should be very nearly straight, and begin to curve only near the waist, and from 5 down it must have the same curve as outside line below point E to F.
Now have a sleeve cut for a 36 size and lay this on to K, as shown, so that the sleeve-head rests against the line from K to I; then in the centre, between I and K, find point 2 and stick a pin.
Now turn to Figure 38: In the middle, between line A and D, draw line E; keeping it pinned at 2, move the lower part of the sleeve towards the back till the top of the sleeve-head just touches line E at 10. While it lays thus draw along the top from 2 to 10 and 9, also down from 9, in front of sleeve pattern, to line B. This gives the outline of the sleeve, but we modify it by drawing a corrected line from 10, inside of point 9 of sleeve, down to 12.
Figure 39 gives the balance of the sleeve. First draw a line in the centre, between lines B and C, which places line D.
Then take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at point 2, and without moving the sleeve stick a pin at point U; this point is found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve forward. When this is done take hold of the sleeve at its lower point and move it upwards, till point T of sleeve rests on line D at N, and then curve from 16 to N. To produce this curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line D at 17, and place the same from 17 to 19, and draw a straight line from 19 to 18, then curve line from 16, resting on line at 20, thence to N. From N curve form of sleeve to 21 and 15, and to 13 for one style of sleeve, or from U to 21 and 14 for another style.
Go in from 4 to 5 three-quarters of an inch; curve from 10, past 2, touching the back, and along it past line B, and thence separate from the back to 5 and 14—this last line must touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and is marked 5 on the same.
THE FRONT—FIG. 40.
Lay the back down on paper and extend all the lines across, line A, B, C, D and bottom line. Measure from Z to A on line B, one-half of breast, or 18 inches; from B to H is one-third of breast and 1 inch; H to P is one-fourth of breast, equal to 4½ inches. Draw a line up at P, and one up and down at A. Mark line A also. From K to L is one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and K to 7 is the same, 3 inches; curve neck.
Draw a line from L to D and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from L to 8, and curve from 8 upwards above the line one-fourth inch; draw from 8 down in front of line P to 9. This will be three-fourths inch in front of line P. Let this curve of the arm-hole extend below line B, or nearly down to midway between lines B and C, and curve to 6. From 6 draw down to 5, which is three-fourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17; at the last point it should be about 1¼ inch over the straight line drawn down from 4 on the back.