From point G, which, as before stated, is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches from B, draw a straight line down. Curve from G to 12, 13 and 18; the last point is 2 inches from T; also curve from G to 12, 14 and 19. Point 19 is the same distance from T as 18.
Draw bottom line from 19 to 30 at front, where curve three-fourths inch below the line. Add in front over F line, for double-breasted 3 inches, and for single-breasted 1½ inches.
Fig. 40.
Now we have only to show how the under-sleeve is produced. This is done by measuring first the sleeve-head from O, where point J of the back is sewn on, to 16, which point is in middle, between 9 and 18. This will measure 10½ inches; as we put in 1 inch of fullness in the sleeve-head it leaves us only 9½ inches, which is measured down the front from 8 to 10 and notched. Lay sleeve notch, marked 16, on to notch on the fore-part 10, hold it there with a pin, move it till line on sleeve, marked C, will lay parallel with any of the lines, as C or B on fore-part. Then mark on the fore-part along the sleeve, from notch at 10 to N of sleeve, and from N to 21; the sleeve will now be marked on the fore-part line 10 to O, P and A, and will be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper.
The principle as given in this article is suitable, and the only thing necessary, to produce any style of dolman. The change necessary for the short or long pointed sleeve, or for any shape of arm-wing, does not alter the principle. Pleated backs, or very much fullness in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the amount required for pleats or fullness.
When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted. When more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 1 or 2 inches, and a little more round put on the top.
The principle, as shown in this book, will produce for every style of garment a correct fit, and yet it may be urged upon all using it, that in order to produce new styles, or garments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader’s own judgment must necessarily help to carry him through.
In conclusion, let me say—that any point or measuring that does not seem clear, by addressing me I will always be ready to enlighten to the best of my ability.