The trees in the valley of Kokki more nearly approached the size of English oaks or pines than any I had yet seen, but I disappointed my friends by not alluding to their height or thick trunks. Ebin Izaak at last remarked that I had never seen any like them in my country. I replied, that except whilst young, the trees of England were never less than these, nor did they strike me as being astonishingly large, although I supposed they would appear so to him, accustomed only to the dwarf mimosa-trees of Adal.
We halted here for two hours, during which time a large herd of cattle, conducted by a few men, were brought to the stream to drink. Both men and cattle had every appearance of being Dankalli, and inquiring, I found that they belonged to some members of the Wahama tribe, who by permission of the Negoos, or King of Shoa, Sahale Selassee, occupied the country between the Hawash and Dinnomalee. They paid as a tribute annually one ox for every hundred head of cattle in their herds, and were also accustomed to give to the King what little ivory they chanced to pick up from the heads of elephants, naturally deceased. The King, as on every other occasion, we spoke about him, either among ourselves, or with others, was the subject of the warmest commendation. His liberality and justice were the theme of every one so far, and here some arms and clothes, recently bestowed by him upon this tribe, were brought to us for our inspection and admiration. Although some portion of these people still lived in the wigwams of their own country, surrounded by a low hedge of dry mimosa branches, and enclosed their cattle for safety during the night in stone kraals; others, who had married Abyssinian women, had assumed more civilized habits. These observed more strictly the laws and ceremonies of the Mahomedan religion, being particularly observant of the stated times and forms of prayer. They inhabited a village that stood on the edge of the opposite bank of Kokki, embosomed amidst high trees, among which the conical thatched roofs of their houses were visible, and the loud crowing of a cock told also, that they had surmounted the prejudices of their Bedouin ancestors against keeping fowls.
The leading camels of the caravan coming into sight, we learnt from some of the faster walkers who preceded it, that one of the Hy Soumaulee Kafilahs, having travelled during the night from Mulkukuyu, had arrived at Azbotee, just as our camels were moving off, and rather than remain alone at that place, had determined to continue their march with us, at least, as far as the present spot, which I could see was sometimes made a halting-place for Kafilahs.
Again starting on our march, we followed the bed of a small stream, flowing into the valley of Kokki; and which, after leading us a short distance through some beautiful forest scenery, entered a ravine, having high precipitous cliffs on either side of a very light coloured trachytic rock. In huge fissures, that traversed the faces of these perpendicular walls of stone, large trees, among which I noticed the tamarind, flourished in great luxuriance, projecting from their singular habitats, over the passing traveller. Every twenty yards, the stream, in its serpentine course, presented a new picture, and it will be very long before I forget the series of little romantic landscapes I cast my eye over, during our too hasty passage. The bottom of this water-cut chasm was not wider than a common road in England, and nearly as level. It was covered with a beautiful green turf of the softest and finest young grass. The meandering thread of the gently rippling brook that passed along, now crossing our path, and now expanding into little pools of the clearest water, was all that represented the powerful agent that had effected the denudation of this deep and extensive, though narrow defile; and the triumph of easy, gentle persuasion, found no bad type in the effects of this little stream upon the rocky walls that bounded its deeply-cut channel.
We opened, at length, upon some narrow valleys, that seemed each to contribute in the rainy season its quota, to the swollen river that then joins the Kokki. Across these we passed, plucking, as we went, an unctuous, gelatinous, berry; not unlike in taste and character to our yew berry; and which grew upon a shrub that appeared to belong to the honey-suckle tribe, without depending, however, upon any other but its own short strong stem for support. Its fruit appears to be a great favourite with the Dankalli, who dry the berries in the sun, and carry down considerable quantities with them on their return to Tajourah, for their friends at home.
We now entered a jungly district, the height of the shrubs and bushes preventing any extensive view; besides, I was too much occupied in taking care of my eyes and face, from the lashing recoil of the impatient branches, at being disturbed by the spears of the wild Bedouins dashing by. After a march of about six miles from Kokki, we came to a more sparingly-wooded spot, and on an adjoining height, we discerned some men sitting in very white tobes, who appeared to be waiting for, or watching, our approach. As soon as we saw them, there was a general cry out for me to fire, and I scarcely knew what to think of it; but the oft-repeated word, “Abshee,” “Abshee,” soon told me that the men were Abyssinians, and I understood that I was to give them a salute. Ohmed Medina being among the most importunate for this display, I laughingly proposed, he should fire my carabine off himself, to which, much to my surprise, he readily acquiesced; and, after I had cocked both barrels, banged away without any hesitation, securing the applause of all around for his unflinching courage. He was not satisfied with this, but turned to ask me also, if he were not a brave soldier? to which I, of course, assented. A few moments more brought us on to a small open place of green-sward, surrounded by high mimosa-trees, beneath one of which we dismounted, and walked towards the men in the clean tobes, who had also risen, and were now coming to receive us. This was the station of Dinnomalee, where the assair, or tythe, of all articles of merchandise introduced into the Mangust, or kingdom of Shoa, is paid to the King as duty.
After some moments of very ceremonious greeting, we were conducted beneath the convenient canopy of a flat-topped mimosa which threw, some distance from the trunk, a circular shade, where we squatted down; and an animated conversation was carried on between my Tajourah friends and the representatives, as our new acquaintances turned out to be, of the Wallasmah, or Governor of the province of Efat, named Mahomed, who is also chief of the customs upon this frontier. A large bag of dollars, was also produced from somewhere on our side, and with a splendid affectation of disregard, was slapped down with a loud ring upon the ground, between Ohmed Mahomed and Ohmed Medina. The jingling music had its effect upon our Abyssinian friends, lighting up their countenances, as their dark faces assumed a smiling expression, that said out plainly, “Oh! how glad we are to see you.”
Two or three hours passed away, and I began to tire of such a long calahm, in which I could take no part, so I asked Ohmed Medina if the town of Farree was in this neighbourhood, that I might go and take up my residence there at once. He asked me not to go until the Kafilah came up, which would not now be long; so I reseated myself and commenced again my examination of the surrounding country. Numerous towns and villages were in sight, all occupying the tops of small hills, which formed the limits of observation, at the distance of not more than three miles. The little savannah where we were seated appeared surrounded by a narrow, well-wooded belt, beyond which, on the rising slopes of the hills, could be seen fields of cotton-bushes, and of the high jowaree maize, cultivated nearly to the summits; where a few green trees overhung conical straw-thatched roofs, resting upon low wattled walls, which is the general character, differing only in size, of all Abyssinian houses.
The Kafilah did not make its appearance till almost sunset, and I got still more tired and vexed at such a compulsatory stay, for nothing would induce the principal of the party who received us to allow our proceeding farther until the messenger had returned from Guancho, the seat of the Wallasmah Mahomed, some six or seven miles off to the west. After the sun had set, the man returned bearing commands for all parties; but that which interested me most, was the order given to take me to Farree, and provide me with a house, and my escort with a dinner of bread and ale at Dinnomalee. He also announced the coming of the Wallasmah the next day to examine the salt and other merchandise of the several Kafilahs. Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed were to remain with the escort, and not to be allowed to accompany me to Farree, but as I looked with some suspicion upon such peremptory orders, I did not like being separated from those I could trust; especially as, from several hints given me by Ohmed Medina, I was led to suspect that the members of the embassy were all in prison. I insisted therefore remaining where I was, or that the Hy Soumaulee should go to Farree with me; and as these untamed gentlemen had already taken offence, and sat in the usual threatening manner, determined to force their way if any attempt were made to prevent them, it was at length, after a long debate, agreed that they should occupy the garden, or enclosure, around the house to which I was to be taken; I becoming responsible to the negoos, or king, whose name they appeared to look upon as sacred, for this breach of the particular command that had been issued respecting any more English that might come up to Shoa. During the discussion, I could not help laughing at one of the Abyssinians, who had taken my carabine as it lay upon the ground, and seemed unwilling to give it up to me on my request, calling out as he held it away, “Y’ negoos, Y’ negoos, Sahale Selassee,” as if he had been a constable, and that these words were an inviolable authority. Moosa, who saw the whole affair, and heard me telling the man to put the gun down, now interfered, and saying something in a threatening tone, the fat burly citizen, who I could see was no fighting character, quickly did as he was commanded, but still repeating, “Sahale Selassee, Sahale Selassee.”
My mule being brought, I mounted for a long ride, as I expected, and proceeded with the Hy Soumaulee, who, having gained their point of accompanying me, were in great glee, shouting to each other as they darted among the trees, or raced through the more cultivated parts, running and leaping as they went over the low cotton-bushes that stood in their way. Much to my astonishment, on rounding the shoulder of a projecting ridge, we came in sight of the town of Farree, situated not a quarter of an hour’s walk to the west of Dinnomalee. We threaded our way across the few fields that intervened by a narrow path that reminded me of the narrow church-ways across cultivated lands in England. Then ascending a steep elevation, of about two hundred feet high, by a rough stony road, entered an open depressed space, between four or five pap-like elevations into which the summit of the hill was divided, each of which was surmounted by a little group of houses, whilst the concavity in the midst formed a kind of green, or market-place, in the centre of which was a low enclosure of loose stones surrounding a few young mimosa-trees. Suspended from several of the branches I saw the tail, and a long slip of the skin, of a hyæna, with some similar remains of wild cats, hung up as trophies, and as an instructive lesson to the wild animals in the neighbourhood of the evil results of pilfering hen-roosts or folds.