I rested myself awhile against the “madubbah,” or stone fence, upon which sat several Hy Soumaulee perched as if upon a roost, until our guide returned, he having gone to select a house and garden for the accommodation of myself and suite. At last we were taken to the same house in which I was informed all previous travellers had stayed, and where also poor Mr. Airston died.[[7]] The goodman was absent at Aliu Amba market, but his two wives (he was a Mahomedan) shewed me every attention, spreading a large ox-skin upon the raised earth or platform, two feet high, which occupied half the apartment. The women made signs to me to take off my boots, lay aside my arms, and lie down whilst they prepared some bread for my evening meal. The Hy Soumaulee sat on their heels very patiently, in the little compound, surrounded by a high stick fence, in which the house stood. The entrance-gate, by the by, was of a very singular kind, its upper edge being attached by hide hinges to the lintel. When opened it required to be lifted up, and a stick prop was placed under the lower edge to support it. It shut down something like a trap door.
[7]. This gentleman, after having passed through all the dangers of the Adal country, was suddenly attacked with inflammation of the brain at Farree, where he was awaiting the permission of the negoos to enter Shoa. He died after a few days’ illness, during which time M. Rochet d’Hericourt and Mr. Krapf rendered every available assistance. Some months after I had lived in Shoa I visited the Wallasmah, on purpose to see the state prisons of Guancho. I remained all night, and in the morning was taken to a ridge opposite, towards the south-west, where stood a small “Bait y’ Christian,” the church of St. Michael’s in Ahgobba. I felt pleased, when I reached the spot, that the object of my attendants was to point out the grave of my deceased countryman, which, with natural good feeling, they had supposed would be interesting to me. To give Mr. Airston Christian burial, the kind-hearted people of Farree (Mahomedans) must have carried his corpse more than six miles over the roughest road imaginable.
Some of the best known of my escort I called into the house to converse with, whilst, in the meantime, proclamation was being made through the village for the food to be prepared, with which to supply the strangers; each householder being called upon to bring in two large round crumpets, a foot and a-half in diameter, as the contribution for that purpose. I was much pleased with this evidence of the hospitable character of my new friends, it being an invariable custom, on the arrival of any traveller in Abyssinian towns, to supply him with food at the public expense for the first few days, or until the pleasure of the King can be known, who then generally takes upon himself the maintenance of his visitor, during the remainder of his stay in the country. It added to my gratification, also, to observe that this duty was attended to promptly, and with apparent good will, by the inhabitants. Had it been otherwise, I should certainly have refused such a kind of supply; but not the least evidence of disinclination afforded me the opportunity of offering to pay for our entertainment.
In less than an hour I saw realized the picture of Abyssinian peace and plenty, which had been frequently described in the Adal country, by the admiring Bedouins and Kafilah men, who used to enact the carrying of bread on their head, and large jars of ale upon their shoulders, to give me an idea of what I might expect in that happy land. Laughing girls in dark red gowns, and staid married women similarly attired, but, to mark the difference, with a guftah, or three-cornered double kerchief cap of the same colour, firmly fastened close under the point of the chin, came trooping down, each with a shallow saucer-like basket of variegated red and yellow straw balanced upon her head. The high conical covers being taken off as the baskets were placed at the feet of the misselannee, or steward of the governor of the town, they were found to contain the two required cakes of a very light bread, yet warm and steaming, and which were, only much larger, exactly like the crumpet or pikelit of England. These were made of the flour of teff, the small seeds of a grass, which makes much lighter bread than wheat.
Sufficient of these for the supply of nearly forty men were soon heaped high in two large receiving baskets; but as meat did not seem to be forthcoming, I gave a dollar privately to Adam Burrah, who came and whispered the name and that of bullock in my ear, a sufficient hint, which I readily took. He and Moosa were absent but a short time before they returned with a young cow, which was killed, and a requisition for wood being made to the misselannee, that functionary gave orders for a quantity immediately to be brought to cook the meat. Everything seemed to be conducted with the greatest quiet and order, even the wild Dankalli themselves appeared to be affected by example, and in Farree endeavoured to assume civilized airs and conduct.
Just as supper was ready, the Wallasmah Mahomed sent down to me, from his residence at Gauncho, six miles distant, three large jars, each containing about five gallons of fine strong ale, so that a regular banquet closed the first day of my arrival in Shoa. Before it was concluded a numerous and very jovial party had collected, for, contrary to the strict orders that had been issued, after sunset nearly all the men of the Kafilah at Dinnomalee came stealing in, in parties of two and three, until not half a dozen, I should think, remained to take care of the camels and stores. Several came to me begging for sheep, and as I found that I could purchase five of the animals fully grown, for a dollar, I was glad to be able, at such a reasonable rate, to add to the pleasures of my companions, who seemed determined to make themselves happy and comfortable.
The moon shone upon a splendid scene of enjoyment that night. Every village-capped height in the neighbourhood had its bonfire. All around resounded with the quick sharp clapping of hands, the measured accompaniment of song and dance. No learned commentator was needed here. Circumstances themselves aptly enough illustrated the Psalmist’s situation and feelings, for “Clap your hands, O ye little hills,” personifies and expresses the gladness and praise of a people situated like the Amhara, whose language and whose customs identify their origin with that of the Jews.
Long before the revels ended I had laid myself down on the ox-skin which had served me as a couch during the day, and soon fell fast asleep. In the same apartment lay the wives of the owner of the house, two or three slave-girls, and some young children. Fowls also were roosting upon a kind of shelf made of jowaree stalks, bound together and placed against the wall, and had I not occupied the whole of the raised platform of clay and stones, I expect the family would have slept upon it, and two oxen, unceremoniously shut out to sleep with the Hy Soumaulee in the garden, would have occupied that part of the house where now, huddled together, the women and children were sleeping.
Having arrived in Abyssinia, I shall conclude my account of the journey through Adal with a few remarks upon the character of the Dankalli, which, upon a review of what I have written, seem necessary to explain the opinion I hold of the great capabilities possessed by this family of man.
In the first place, I am bound to add my testimony to that of every other traveller, to the proneness of the Dankalli to shed human blood, and the little value they seem to attach to human life. By a distortion of moral and natural ideas of right and wrong, unparalleled in the history of any other people, murder is considered by them to be highly honourable. Every fresh assassination is rewarded by an additional personal ornament, and the destruction of a sleeping guest, or of a fighting foe, contribute alike to the credit and reputation of the brave. The well dissembled bearing by which they lure the most suspicious into a fatal confidence, and the firm bravery with which they attack a more powerful enemy, can only be referred to the operation of mental powers of the very first order, and, according to my own ideas of the nature of man, they present the extreme of moral degradation that the caste to which they belong can fall into. I am not a willing evidence against a people among whom I spent some not unpleasant days, and received much instruction from the opportunities afforded me of studying their character, and the circumstances under which they are placed, and which convinced me that, if properly educated and directed, they would take a very high rank among civilized nations. I feel assured that in a more favourable situation, and under another social economy, those intellectual capabilities now only developed in evil, would fast progress to the most enlightened civilization.