The season seems to be either early or late, for the people along the shore are scant in number. Fresh looking wicker chairs, with large comfortable seats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the hotels and at the water’s edge, and at a trifling cost, offer rest to the weary pedestrian, and protection to the shy lovers who seek to escape the embarrassing gaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and persevering fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with basket suspended from the shoulder, pausing before the chairs, or waylaying passers-by with importunities to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various other dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians with stringed instruments, who charm us with their delightful melodies. Their music is superior to that which greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia. In truth, in Holland and Germany, one rarely hears anything but good music from these bands of itinerant players, and operatic selections of the higher class are frequently heard at the popular beer gardens of these countries.
A short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy encampment, and the quick witted members of these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune telling. We are told that they are always to be found here during the summer season, and are quite popular among the young and the credulous, who willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the future, and the wonderful predictions of fame and fortune made by these glib tongued southerners. Their gay dresses, in some of which are displayed all the colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect: and now I discover in one of the great hooded chairs a lady artist, with a well covered canvas, upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome gypsy girl, while the wagons and the sea form a beautiful background. I enter into conversation with her, and learn that she is from Amsterdam, and is filled with enthusiasm for the charms of this country. She says: “If one will but open his eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every corner of the province.” And it is true. Nature has indeed been lavish in her gifts to Holland. Here are scenes and subjects unlimited in number, and indescribably attractive.
The citizens of Amsterdam are most kind and hospitable. As an instance of their cordiality I mention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor by a townsman Mr. L——, who says we must not return home without a glimpse of the social life of the city. The banquet is held at the largest and most popular banqueting hall (Maison Couturier), and besides our host and his family, a few intimate friends and some young people are present. At the appointed hour we are driven to a spacious and handsome building, and are conducted to a beautiful apartment with most attractive surroundings. The first floor of this hall is elegantly furnished, and lit by electric lights. Flowers, palms, and other tropical plants adorn the halls and rooms. After a cordial welcome from our host, we are led to the banqueting hall, where we are dazzled by the light and beauty around us, and delighted by the artistic effect. Covers are laid for sixteen guests. Flowers, plants and fruits are picturesquely arranged, and even the electric lights exhibit various glowing designs. The feast is prepared under the direction of an experienced chef, and here we speedily become aware that the city of Amsterdam is not one whit behind the great centres of the world in this line of achievement. After many toasts to Amsterdam and its people have been responded to, the hospitalities are concluded with one to “America and its beautiful women,” and we take our departure after three hours most delightfully spent in social intercourse with our friends. Upon this occasion four languages, French, Dutch, German and English are fluently spoken.
Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken.