In the stricter sense, the soft group of cheeses falls naturally into two series: (1) the varieties eaten fresh; and (2) the ripened soft cheeses. Those eaten fresh have a making process which commonly involves the development of a lactic acid flavor by souring, but no ripening is contemplated after the product leaves the maker's hands. In the ripened series, after the making process is completed, the essential flavors and textures are developed by the activity of micro-organisms during ripening periods varying in length but fairly well-defined for each variety.
In contrast to the soft cheeses, the hard kinds are low in water-content, ripen more slowly and may be kept through much longer periods. They retain their form through a wider range of climatic conditions. They develop flavor slowly and correspondingly deteriorate much more slowly. Such cheeses are in marketable condition over longer periods. In their manufacture the cooking of the curd takes a prominent place.
109. Relation of heat to classes.—The close relation between the heat applied and the product sought forms the basis of a striking series of graphs ([Fig. 12,] page 78). These show the changes hour by hour in the heat relation during the making process of a series of widely known forms, each of which is chosen as typical. In some of these forms, heat is applied but once to bring the milk to the renneting temperature typical for the variety. Subsequent manipulations are accompanied by a steady fall in temperature. In other forms, the curd when solid is specially heated or "cooked" to bring about the changes characteristic of the variety. These contrasts are clearly brought out by the graphs which represent practices well recognized for the varieties. The detailed process for these groups is considered in succeeding chapters.
CHAPTER VII
CHEESES WITH SOUR-MILK FLAVOR
The cheeses with flavor of sour milk are probably more widely used than any other group. Historically and to a very large degree at present, they are farm cheeses.[31] No estimate of volume of such production in the household has ever been made. The utilization of surplus milk in this way is of ancient origin.
With the introduction of the factory system of handling milk, the manufacture of such cheese in the household was largely dropped. The rise in price of all food substances and increasing appreciation of the food value of milk products have made the recovery of all surplus milk in some form very necessary. The manufacture of cottage, Neufchâtel and cream cheese is one of the best forms of such recovery which may be adapted to utilize any grade from skimmed-milk to cream. Large quantities of skimmed-milk have frequently been lost from the total of human food by the manufacture of casein for industrial uses, and by use as stock feed.
110. Skim series.—The kinds of cheeses eaten fresh have in common a very soft texture and the flavor of sour milk, principally lactic acid. The group falls naturally into two sections: (1) the cheeses made from milk curdled by souring; (2) those for which the milk is curdled by souring and rennet. In the latter group both agencies are necessary to the resulting product. The time required to curdle by souring alone is longer than when rennet is used; this period is usually longer than necessary for the cream to rise by gravity; hence the cream is either skimmed off or removed with the separator beforehand. The curd, therefore, is essentially a skimmed-milk curd. Casein curdled in this way tends to become granular or "rough," to feel "sandy" when rubbed between the fingers. Heating is commonly necessary to lower the water-content of the mass even to 75 per cent. Such curd tends to become hard or rubbery when heat is applied. In this group, the best known form is variously called "cottage" cheese, "clabber" cheese, schmierkäse.