The milk may be ripened by allowing the lactic organisms already present in the milk to develop naturally. This requires considerable time and while the lactic acid-forming bacteria are developing, other and undesirable fermentations may be taking place, so that the good results which should follow the uninterrupted development of the lactic acid-forming organisms are lost. Starter is commonly used to produce the desired ripening of the milk. (For the preparation of starter see [Chapter IV.])
Fig. 31.—Steel cheese vat.
Some makers put the starter into the empty vat (Fig. 31) and add the milk as it is received; others add it to the total volume of cold milk and then begin to heat it. Whenever the starter is used, it should be strained to remove lumps. These lumps might cause a mottled color in the cheese. The best practice calls for an acidity or a rennet test of the mixed milk after it has been brought to the setting temperature in the vat. With milk tested at this stage and the volume of milk in the vat known, the cheese-maker is able to calculate closely the amount of starter needed. When the quantity of starter to use is in doubt, the amount added should be under rather than over the estimate, since the need of more can be determined by making frequent rennet and acid tests in a very few minutes without damage to the cheese. If too much starter has been used, acid or sour cheese is usually obtained, with loss in market quality.
An over-development of acidity at any stage of the manufacturing process affects the flavor, body and texture, color and finish of the cheese. The product is known as a sour cheese, and can usually be identified by its sour taste and smell. A sour cheese while curing will seldom develop a normal Cheddar flavor and the texture will be hard and harsh and very brittle. The body will not be smooth but harsh and grainy. The over-development of acid will show by fading or bleaching the color. A sour cheese usually leaks whey for a few days after being placed on the curing-room shelves.
Ripening the milk is one of the most important parts of cheese-making. Proper ripening places the acid fermentations under the control of the cheese-maker so that he may know what results will follow his labors. The operator can control the acidity while ripening the milk, but after the rennet is added all control of the acidity is lost. From that time, the moisture must be regulated in proportion to the acidity.
Before setting, the milk should be ripened to such a point as to leave at least two and one-half hours from the time that the rennet extract is added until the acid development has reached the stage at which it is necessary to remove the whey. By the acid test the milk may vary from 0.16 to 0.18 of 1 per cent, but no definite statement can be given for the rennet test. This can be determined only by comparison from day to day. For operation of rennet test see [Chapter V]. During this period of two and one-half hours, the curd is formed, then cut, and the temperature is raised from 84° or 86° F. (the temperature at which the rennet extract is added) to about 98° to 100° F. The curd must be kept agitated so that the particles will not mat together; this is necessary to obtain sufficient contraction of the particles of curd with the proper reduction of water-content. If the milk becomes too ripe (too sour) before the rennet is added, there will not be sufficient time for these steps to take place naturally. In such cases special means are required to firm the curd. These result in a loss of both quality and quantity of cheese. On the other hand, if the milk is not ripened, but the rennet extract added, regardless of the acid development, one of the important natural forces for expelling the moisture is lost. The time required for the particles of curd to contract is much prolonged, the expulsion of whey is usually inadequate and the curd remains in a soft or wet condition. Using too much starter is almost equally bad, for although it hastens the making process, it produces a sour or acid cheese.
195. Setting or coagulating.—The milk for Cheddar cheese-making is heated to 86° to 88° F. or occasionally a slightly lower temperature. This temperature is found by experiment to give the texture of curd most favorable for the desired results. Although some cheese-makers work as low as 84° F., the texture of such curd is too soft and coagulates too slowly. The very slight change of 2° F. produces curd which coagulates more quickly and is tougher and firmer.
If the cheeses are to be colored, the color should be added after all the starter. It should be thoroughly and evenly mixed with the milk to insure an even color in the cheese. If the color is added before the starter, there are likely to be white specks in the cheese, on account of the coagulated casein in the starter. The amount of color to use depends on the tint desired in the cheese. It varies from ⅓ to ½ ounce to 1000 pounds of milk for a light straw color to 1½ to 2 ounces for 1000 pounds of milk for a deep red color.