8 Application

9 Torchon

10 Duchesse

k. A pattern for bobbin lace, with l, m, n, the braids in which it must be executed

Each fragment is traced on a dark blue paper or patron on which the place for the pins is not indicated (sketch k.). The lace-maker pins this blue paper to the middle of her cushion, covering the whole with a piece of dark blue linen which has a hole in the middle large enough to leave free the part of the pattern actually being worked. The lace already finished is thus protected. She then places a pin on the spot where she decides to begin, attaching the necessary number of bobbins and starts to weave as a weaver does, first from right to left, then from left to right, carrying the two bobbins holding the threads forming the woof (trame) successively above and below the threads forming the warp (chaine). Each time all of the threads of the warp have been crossed by the threads of the woof, she places a pin, and now the two woof threads caught by this pin lead back to the opposite side. She turns her cushion according to the direction of the braid she is executing, so that the threads forming the warp always fall vertically.

l. (Left) A braid which forms the toile