m. (Middle) A grillé braid
n. (Right) A braid of 4 threads
The fundamental stitch in these laces and that which forms the greatest part of the braids is the point de toile, or toile (sketch 1.). Certain open stitches are also employed, the most common being the grillé or half-stitch (sketch m.).
The different varieties of bobbin laces made with cut threads, or in repeated pieces are:
a. Bruges, the flowers are united by brides or bars that are braided with four threads (sketch n.).
b. Duchesse (made only with fine thread, loosely worked and producing a not particularly pleasing result).
c. Rosaline (an imitation with bobbins of Rose Point. Brodes, or raised outlines made with the needle, give it relief).
d. Flanders (in this lace the base of brides or bars is replaced by a net mesh base executed with a needle).
e. Application (the flowers, executed like those of Bruges are sewed upon tulle).
2. Lace made with uncut or continuous threads. Laces of this group are executed on a stationary cushion. The design, before it can be used by the worker, must pass through the hands of a piqueuse, or interpreter, who prepares what is called the patron or pattern (sketch o), that is to say, determines in advance the places where the pins destined to hold the threads, must be placed (sketch of a piqure, p.). This work of the piqueuse demands great skill and infinite patience. Upon her interpretation will depend the aspect of the lace, for the worker follows her indications rigidly. This pattern is pricked on a supple and resistant cardboard (in olden times it was made on parchment) and is pinned to the cushion with the selvage of the lace at the left. The worker then attaches to a row of pins placed all across the top of the pattern, the threads which she will need, often many hundreds.