| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| SHEEP’S WOOL. | |
| SHEEP-BREEDING AND PASTORAL LIFE OF THE ANCIENTS—ILLUSTRATIONS OFTHE SCRIPTURES, ETC. | |
| The Shepherd Boy—Sheep-breeding in Scythia and Persia—Mesopotamia andSyria—In Idumæa and Northern Arabia—In Palestine and Egypt—In Ethiopiaand Libya—In Caucasus and Coraxi—The Coraxi identified with themodern Caratshai—In Asia Minor, Pisidia, Pamphylia, Samos, &c.—In Cariaand Ionia—Milesian wool—Sheep-breeding in Thrace, Magnesia, Thessaly,Eubœa, and Bœotia—In Phocis, Attica, and Megaris—In Arcadia—Worshipof Pan—Pan the god of the Arcadian Shepherds—Introduction of his worshipinto Attica—Extension of the worship of Pan—His dances with the nymphs—Pannot the Egyptian Mendes, but identical with Faunus—The philosophicalexplanation of Pan rejected—Moral, social, and political state of the Arcadians—Polybiuson the cultivation of music by the Arcadians—Worship of Mercuryin connection with sheep-breeding and the wool trade—Present state of Arcadia—Sheep-breedingin Macedonia and Epirus—Shepherds’ dogs—Annualmigration of Albanian shepherds | 217 |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| SHEEP-BREEDING AND PASTORAL LIFE OF THE ANCIENTS—ILLUSTRATIONSOF THE SCRIPTURES, ETC. | |
| Sheep-breeding in Sicily—Bucolic poetry—Sheep-breeding in South Italy—Annualmigration of the flocks—The ram employed to aid the shepherd in conductinghis flock—The ram an emblem of authority—Bells—Ancient inscriptionat Sepino—Use of music by ancient shepherds—Superior quality of Tarentinesheep—Testimony of Columella—Distinction of the coarse and soft kinds—Namesgiven to sheep—Supposed effect of the water of rivers on wool—Sheep-breedingin South Italy, Tarentum, and Apulia—Brown and red wool—Sheep-breedingin North Italy—Wool of Parma, Modena, Mantua, and Padua—Originof sheep-breeding in Italy—Faunus the same with Pan—Ancient sculpturesexhibiting Faunus—Bales of wool and the shepherd’s dress—Costume, appearance,and manner of life of the ancient Italian shepherds | 256 |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| SHEEP-BREEDING AND PASTORAL LIFE OF THE ANCIENTS—ILLUSTRATIONSOF THE SCRIPTURES, ETC. | |
| Sheep-breeding in Germany and Gaul—In Britain—Improved by the Belgiansand Saxons—Sheep-breeding in Spain—Natural dyes of Spanish wool—Goldenhue and other natural dyes of the wool of Bætica—Native colors of Bæticwool—Saga and chequered plaids—Sheep always bred principally for theweaver, not for the butcher—Sheep supplied milk for food, wool for clothing—Themoth | 282 |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| GOATS-HAIR. | |
| ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT—ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE SCRIPTURES, ETC. | |
| Sheep-breeding and goats in China—Probable origin of sheep and goats—Sheepand goats coeval with man, and always propagated together—Habits of Greciangoat-herds—He-goat employed to lead the flock—Cameo representing agoat-herd—Goats chiefly valued for their milk—Use of goats’-hair for coarseclothing—Shearing of goats in Phrygia, Cilicia, &c.—Vestes caprina, cloth ofgoats’-hair—Use of goats’-hair for military and naval purposes—Curtains tocover tents—Etymology of Sack and Shag—Symbolical uses of sack-cloth—TheArabs weave goats’-hair—Modern uses of goats’-hair and goats’-wool—Introductionof the Angora or Cashmere goat into France—Success of theProject | 293 |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| BEAVERS-WOOL. | |
| Isidorus Hispalensis—Claudian—Beckmann—Beavers’-wool—Dispersion of Beaversthrough Europe—Fossil bones of Beavers | 309 |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| CAMELS-WOOL AND CAMELS-HAIR. | |
| Camels’-wool and Camels’-hair—Ctesias’s account—Testimony of modern travellers—Arabtent of Camels’-hair—Fine cloths still made of Camels’-wool—Theuse of hair of various animals in the manufacture of beautiful stuffs by the ancientMexicans—Hair used by the Candian women in the manufacture of broideredstuffs—Broidered stuffs of the negresses of Senegal—Their great beauty | 312 |
PART THIRD.
ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE COTTON MANUFACTURE.
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| GREAT ANTIQUITY OF THE COTTON MANUFACTURE IN INDIA—UNRIVALLEDSKILL OF THE INDIAN WEAVER. | |
| Superiority of Cotton for clothing, compared with linen, both in hot and cold climates—Cottoncharacteristic of India—Account of Cotton by Herodotus,Ctesias, Theophrastus, Aristobulus, Nearchus, Pomponius Mela—Use of Cottonin India—Cotton known before silk and called Carpasus, Carpasum, Carbasum,&c.—Cotton awnings used by the Romans—Carbasus applied to linen—Lastrequest of Tibullus—Muslin fillet of the vestal virgin—Linen sails, &c.,called Carbasa—Valerius Flaccus introduces muslin among the elegancies inthe dress of a Phrygian from the river Rhyndacus—Prudentius’s satire on pride—Apuleius’stestimony—Testimony of Sidonius Apollinaris, and Avienus—Plinyand Julius Pollux—Their testimony considered—Testimony of Tertullianand Philostratus—Of Martianus Capella—Cotton paper mentioned by TheophylusPresbyter—Use of Cotton by the Arabians—Cotton not common ancientlyin Europe—Marco Polo and Sir John Mandeville’s testimony of theCotton of India—Forbes’s description of the herbaceous Cotton of Guzerat—Testimonyof Malte Brun—Beautiful Cotton textures of the ancient Mexicans—Testimonyof the Abbé Clavigero—Fishing nets made from Cotton by theinhabitants of the West India Islands, and on the Continent of South America—Columbus’stestimony—Cotton used for bedding by the Brazilians | 315 |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| SPINNING AND WEAVING—MARVELLOUS SKILL DISPLAYED IN THESEARTS. | |
| Unrivalled excellence of India muslins—Testimony of the two Arabian travellers—MarcoPolo, and Odoardo Barbosa’s accounts of the beautiful Cotton texturesof Bengal—Cæsar Frederick, Tavernier, and Forbes’s testimony—Extraordinaryfineness and transparency of Decca muslins—Specimen brought by SirCharles Wilkins; compared with English muslins—Sir Joseph Banks’s experiments—Extraordinaryfineness of Cotton yarn spun by machinery in England—Finenessof India Cotton yarn—Cotton textures of Soonergong—Testimony ofR. Fitch—Hamilton’s account—Decline of the manufactures of Dacca accountedfor—Orme’s testimony of the universal diffusion of the Cotton manufacturein India—Processes of the manufacture—Rude implements—Roller gin—Bowing.(Eli Whitney inventor of the cotton gin—Tribute of respect paidto his memory—Immense value of Mr. Whitney’s invention to growers and manufacturersof Cotton throughout the world.) Spinning wheel—Spinning withouta wheel—Loom—Mode of weaving—Forbes’s description—Habits and remunerationof Spinners, Weavers, &c.—Factories of the East India Company—Marvellousskill of the Indian workman accounted for—Mills’s testimony—PrincipalCotton fabrics of India, and where made—Indian commerce in Cotton goods—Alarmcreated in the woollen and silk manufacturing districts of Great Britain—Extractsfrom publications of the day—Testimony of Daniel De Foe (Authorof Robinson Crusoe.)—Indian fabrics prohibited in England, and mostother countries of Europe—Petition from Calcutta merchants—Present conditionof the City of Dacca—Mode of spinning fine yarns—Tables showingthe comparative prices of Dacca and British manufactured goods of the samequality | 333 |
PART FOURTH.
ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE LINEN MANUFACTURE.
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| FLAX. | |
| CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF FLAX BY THE ANCIENTS—ILLUSTRATIONSOF THE SCRIPTURES, ETC. | |
| Earliest mention of Flax—Linen manufactures of the Egyptians—Linen worn bythe priests of Isis—Flax grown extensively in Egypt—Flax gathering—Envelopesof Linen found on Egyptian mummies—Examination of mummy-cloth—Provedto be Linen—Flax still grown in Egypt—Explanation of terms—Byssus—Replyto J. R. Forster—Hebrew and Egyptian terms—Flax in NorthAfrica, Colchis, Babylonia—Flax cultivated in Palestine—Terms for flax andtow—Cultivation of Flax in Palestine and Asia Minor—In Elis, Etruria, CisalpineGaul, Campania, Spain—Flax of Germany, of the Atrebates, and of theFranks—Progressive use of linen among the Greeks and Romans | 358 |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| HEMP. | |
| Cultivation and Uses of Hemp by the Ancients—Its use limited—Thrace Colchis—Caria—Etymologyof Hemp | 387 |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| ASBESTOS. | |
| Uses of Asbestos—Carpasian flax—Still found in Cyprus—Used in funerals—Asbestine-cloth—Howmanufactured—Asbestos used for fraud and superstitionby the Romish monks—Relic at Monte Casino | 390 |