APPENDICES.

[APPENDIX A.]
ON PLINY’S NATURAL HISTORY.
Sheep and wool Price of wool in Pliny’s time—Varieties of wool and where produced—Coarsewool used for the manufacture of carpets—Woollen cloth ofEgypt—Embroidery—Felting—Manner of cleansing—Distaff of Tanaquil—Varro—Tunic—Toga—Undulateor waved cloth—Nature of this fabric—Figuredcloths in use in the days of Homer (900 B. C.)—Cloth of gold—Figuredcloths of Babylon—Damask first woven at Alexandria—Plaided textures firstwoven in Gaul—$150,000 paid for a Babylonish coverlet—Dyeing of wool inthe fleece—Observations on sheep and goats—Dioscurias a city of the Colchians—Mannerof transacting business401
[APPENDIX B.]
ON THE ORIGIN AND MANUFACTURE OF LINEN AND COTTON PAPER.
THE INVENTION OF LINEN PAPER PROVEN TO BE OF EGYPTIAN ORIGIN—COTTONPAPER MANUFACTURED BY THE BUCHARIANS AND ARABIANS, A. D. 704.
Wehrs gives the invention of Linen paper to Germany—Schönemann to Italy—Opinionof various writers, ancient and modern—Linen paper produced inEgypt from mummy-cloth, A. D. 1200—Testimony of Abdollatiph—Europeindebted to Egypt for linen paper until the eleventh century—Cotton paper—Theknowledge of manufacturing, how procured, and by whom—Advantagesof Egyptian paper manufacturer’s—Clugny’s testimony—Egyptian manuscriptof linen paper bearing date A. D. 1100—Ancient water-marks on linen paper—Linenpaper first introduced into Europe by the Saracens of Spain. (TheWasp a paper-maker—Manufacture of paper from shavings of wood, and fromthe stalks or leaves of Indian-corn.)404
[APPENDIX C.]
ON FELT.
MANUFACTURE AND USE OF FELTING BY THE ANCIENTS.
Felting more ancient than weaving—Felt used in the East—Use of it by theTartars—Felt made of goats’-hair by the Circassians—Use of felt in Italy andGreece—Cap worn by the Cynics, Fishermen, Mariners, Artificers, &c.—Cleanthescompares the moon to a skull-cap—Desultores—Vulcan—Ulysses—Phrygianbonnet—Cap worn by the Asiatics—Phrygian felt of Camels’-hair—Itsgreat stiffness—Scarlet and purple felt used by Babylonish decorators—Modeof manufacturing—Felt Northern nations of Europe—Cap of liberty—Petasus—Statueof Endymion—Petasus in works of ancient art—Hats of Thessalyand Macedonia—Laconian or Arcadian hats—The Greeks manufactureFelt 900 B. C.—Mercury with the pileus and petasus—Miscellaneous uses ofFelt414
[APPENDIX D.]
ON NETTING.
MANUFACTURE AND USE OF NETS BY THE ANCIENTS—ILLUSTRATIONS OF THESCRIPTURES, ETC.
Nets were made of Flax, Hemp, and Broom—General terms for nets—Nets usedfor catching birds—Mode of snaring—Hunting-nets—Method of hunting—Hunting-netssupported by forked stakes—Manner of fixing them—Purse-netor tunnel-net—Homer’s testimony—Nets used by the Persians in lion-hunting—Huntingwith nets practised by the ancient Egyptians—Method of hunting—Depthof nets for this purpose—Description of the purse-net—Road-net—Hallier—Dyedfeathers used to scare the prey—Casting-net—Manner of throwingby the Arabs—Cyrus king of Persia—His fable of the piper and the fishes—Fishing-nets—Casting-netused by the Apostles—Landing-net (Scap-net)—TheSean—Its length and depth—Modern use of the Sean—Method of fishingwith the Sean practised by the Arabians and ancient Egyptians—Corks andleads—Figurative application of the Sean—Curious method of capturing anenemy practised by the Persians—Nets used in India to catch tortoises—Bag-netsand small purse-nets—Novel scent-bag of Verres the Sicilian prætor436

LIST OF PLATES.

I.[Frontispiece—Chinese Looms.]to face page
II.[Egyptian Looms, with the Processes of Spinning and Winding,]93
III.[Silk Worm, Cocoons, Chrysalis, Moths, and Pinna]118
IV.[Spiders, with the Processes of Spinning and Weaving]172
V.[Indian Loom, with the Process of Winding off the Thread]315
VI.[Egyptian Flax-gathering. Magnified Fibres of Flax and Cotton]359
VII.[Map, showing the Divisions of the Ancient World, coloured according to the Raw Materials principally produced in them for Weaving]400
VIII.[Caps worn by Cynic Philosopher, Vulcan, Dædalus, Ulysses, and a Desultor. Caps worn by Modern Greek Boy and Fisherman. Mysian Cap or Phrygian Bonnet. Coins in the British Museum]415
IX.[Statue of Endymion. Hats worn by Shepherds and Athenian Ephebi. Coins in the British Museum]434
X.[Hunting-scenes in bas-reliefs at Ince-Blundell. Egyptians with the Drag-Net]464

PART FIRST.
ANCIENT HISTORY OF SILK.

CHAPTER I.
SPINNING, DYEING, AND WEAVING.

Whether Silk is mentioned in the Old Testament—Earliest Clothing—Coats of Skin, Tunic, Simla—Progress of Invention Chinese chronology relative to the Culture of Silk—Exaggerated statements—Opinions of Mailla, Le Sage, M. Lavoisnè, Rev. J. Robinson, Dr. A. Clarke, Rev. W. Hales, D.D., Mairan, Bailly, Guignes, and Sir William Jones—Noah supposed to be the first emperor of China—Extracts from Chinese publications—Silk Manufactures of the island of Cos—Described by Aristotle—Testimony of Varro—Spinning and Weaving in Egypt—Great ingenuity of Bezaleel and Aholiab in the production of Figured Textures for the Jewish Tabernacle—Skill of the Sidonian women in the Manufacture of Ornamental Textures—Testimony of Homer—Great antiquity of the Distaff and Spindle—The prophet Ezekiel’s account of the Broidered Stuffs, etc. of the Egyptians—Beautiful eulogy on an industrious woman—Helen the Spartan, her superior skill in the art of Embroidery—Golden Distaff presented her by the Egyptian queen Alcandra—Spinning a domestic occupation in Miletus—Theocritus’s complimentary verses to Theuginis on her industry and virtue—Taste of the Roman and Grecian ladies in the decoration of their Spinning Implements—Ovid’s testimony to the skill of Arachne in Spinning and Weaving—Method of Spinning with the Distaff—Described by Homer and Catullus—Use of Silk in Arabia 500 years after the flood—Forster’s testimony.

To please the flesh a thousand arts contend: