ILLUSTRATIONS

Portsmouth: H.M.S. St Vincent[Frontispiece]
South ForelandFacing p. [10]
The Outward Mail, Dover[18]
Beachy Head[50]
Low Tide at Littlehampton[64]
Portsmouth: Entrance to Harbour[86]
Fareham[92]
Cowes: Summer[98]
Yarmouth, I.O.W.[108]
Southampton[120]
The Needles[130]
Poole Harbour[150]
The Nothe, Weymouth[162]
Bridport[174]
Lyme Regis[178]
Fishing for Mackerel off Exmouth[194]
Torquay Harbour: Entrance[212]
Brixham[222]
Dartmouth[230]
Kingsbridge[246]
Cremill Point, Plymouth[254]
Plymouth Breakwater[262]
Looe[276]
Fowey[286]
St Anthony’s Lighthouse, Falmouth[304]
Falmouth: Flushing Side[316]
Helford Creek[322]
Heavy Weather off Land’s End[326]
A Breeze off the Lizard[328]
Penzance[332]

From the Foreland to Penzance


Chapter I
The North Foreland—Ramsgate—Deal—Dover—Hythe, and some other Cinque Ports

The great headland, famous as the North Foreland, dazzling white on a bright summer’s day, and grey when the weather is cloudy; capped with green turf which is by turns, according to the season, the greenest and the least green in England, is familiar to all who have gone down Channel from the Thames estuary, and to many who have only crossed it. On the summit of this historic and impressive cliff, at whose foot, by turns, lap the waves of a quiet sea and rage the surges of winter’s gale, stands the lighthouse which has an interest to all seafarers beyond its saving power and guidance, in that it is in fact the oldest along the coast. Though much altered and enlarged, its present tower is substantially the same as the one commenced in the reign of the Merry Monarch in 1663. So that for nearly two and a half centuries the light has shone forth over the waste of waters as one old writer says “for the guidance of mariners, as a token of human kindness, and incidentally to the glory of God.”

Many historic events have taken place off the North Foreland, but none perhaps of greater moment than the fierce naval battle between the English and Dutch fleets on June 2, 1653, each numbering close upon 100 vessels, though the latter had some numerical superiority. Then in sight of “all who thronged the headland the great fight went on between the big shipps until the Dutchmen were beaten.”

The English had already gained a victory over the Dutch off Portsmouth a few months before, and now the fleet under the command of Blake, Monk, and Deane, whose name as a naval commander, is, we imagine, almost unknown to the majority of his countrymen of the present day, inflicted a crushing defeat upon the Dutch, six of whose best ships were taken, eleven sunk, and the remainder driven to take shelter in Calais Roads. This engagement was one of a series which took place in the home waters during the years 1652–1675.