Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

On the following morning I informed the assembled chiefs of Wokan of the object of my mission to those parts, namely, to take the inhabitants under the protection of the Dutch Government; to renew the mutual friendship which formerly existed between them;[31] to incite them to carry on more trade, especially with Banda and Amboyna; to confirm the chiefs in their authority; and to promote the welfare and prosperity of these islands and their inhabitants.

After the meeting had been broken up, our party, together with the chiefs of the villages, were invited to dinner by the daughters of the Upper Orang Kaya. The table was spread with a number of well cooked dishes. The wine which I had brought for the entertainment of the chiefs, with the arrack for those of lesser rank, added not a little to the festivity. I remarked on this occasion, that three Orang Kayas, after having drunk a tolerable quantum of wine, finished a bottle of arrack without either of them showing any signs of inebriety. An unsparing use of spirituous liquors may be considered as the greatest vice of the inhabitants of the Arrus, both Christians and Arafuras. The traders bring here large quantities of arrack, together with an inferior kind of aniseed, on which they obtain a very large profit. The natives themselves distil a spirit from sago and rice.

After dinner the people were busily employed in arraying themselves in their best clothes, to attend divine service. Coats and breeches, probably the manufacture of the previous century, were brought to light out of their chests, and from the smoke of their fires, where they had been hung up to preserve them from insects. Among the presents given to the chiefs by M. Bik the previous year, were several pieces of black cloth, which the former had made up with their own hands into coats, &c., after the model of the old-fashioned smoked clothes above-mentioned, using coarse white thread in the construction. The remnants of the cloth had been made up into head-dresses in the form of night-caps. I set the ship's tailor to work altering their coats, to the no small delight of the chiefs.

The church, situated on the south side of the village, is a handsome and strong stone building, and although the doors and windows are wanting, it is otherwise kept carefully in order. On each side of the entrance are benches and reading desks for the men, while a number of old-fashioned carved chairs, certainly a century and a half old, were placed in the centre for the women. Here and there gravestones might be perceived, the inscriptions on which had become illegible. Their dead are not now interred in or near the church, but are deposited in an enclosed cemetery, some distance to the north-east of the fort. The tomb-stones here are ornamented in different ways, and it is a strong proof of the good disposition of these people, that the tombs of the officers of the late East India Company, who have died here, are kept in as good order as those of their own chiefs and forefathers.

Early on the following morning, the 30th of August, I was requested by the natives to allow M. Kam to hold another religious meeting on this day, that a number more of them might have an opportunity of being married and christened. I willingly gave my consent, and promised to be present with my European fellow-voyagers.

On the previous day I had remarked, that the pulpit was ornamented by a curtain formed of a piece of silk. By way of giving the congregation an agreeable surprise, I caused the teacher to suspend in its place a large covering of fine silk, ornamented with the arms of the King of the Netherlands. The sight of this, on their entering the church, had a great effect on the people, who loudly expressed their thanks for this attention; so that I became convinced that this present of the Government could not have been put to a better use.

During the morning several of the seamen asked my permission to attend the church, that they might become baptismal witnesses to some of the natives who had requested their services; this I willingly allowed, cautioning them however to maintain the strictest propriety of conduct. On entering the church, where a large congregation was assembled, we found chairs and benches prepared for our accommodation. The Upper Orang Kaya and his wife requested me to stand godfather to their daughter, who was to be christened Diderika Hendrika; indeed, nearly all the congregation underwent this ceremony, even people who had attained the age of forty years. Among those who were united in matrimony, were many couples who had already lived, for a long period, in a state of wedlock; in fact, several cases occurred in which parents and children were married at the same time. On only one occasion was there any confusion, and this was caused by a ludicrous accident happening to the dress of a young bridegroom, who had arrayed himself for the ceremony in some old, worn-out, and smoke-dried clothes, which, above all, were too small for him. This was too much for any gravity to endure, and the young ladies especially could not restrain their merriment; but a friendly hand tendered the unlucky youth a sarong, in which he would gladly have enveloped himself entirely to conceal his confusion. To add to the solemnity of the occasion, several German flutes had been brought to accompany the psalms, the natives, especially the women, being extremely fond of the music of this instrument. At the request of M. Kam, my Amboynese piper attended to play second; but although the poor youth did all he could with hands and feet, he was unable to keep in tune, so that we were soon obliged to put a stop to the disconcerto.

The ceremony was extremely long, but the attention shown by the audience was truly exemplary; indeed, in the mother country I have seen a congregation asleep from weariness at a much shorter service, so that in this respect our countrymen and countrywomen may learn an example from the simple inhabitants of the Arru Islands. Even after the service they assembled at the house of the teacher, and sang several more psalms; the newly married couples being also ceremoniously congratulated on the joyful occasion. While they were thus employed, I took the opportunity of paying a visit to the ruins of the fort.

This fort, which is now in state of great dilapidation—patches of a wall, which was once three feet thick and twenty feet high, alone remaining—formed a square, with bastions at the corners; but of the latter nothing was now visible, some posts having been erected in their place, on which several lelahs were mounted. The house of the Orang Kaya, which stands in the centre, is the only part in good repair. The natives were very desirous of having a Dutch garrison again among them, in which case they would willingly set to work and put the fort into complete order.

Several of the Mohammedans, who had been driven out of the village, formerly resided a little to the northward; but these have now put themselves under the rule of the Christians, with whom they live on good terms.