Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

by D. H. Kolff

I passed the afternoon in settling the affairs of the natives, the chiefs of the neighbouring villages being present. Bernard Herman was appointed as Upper Orang Kaya, with the promise of a golden-knobbed baton. The chiefs of Wadia betrayed considerable jealousy, and requested me to do them the same honour I had conferred on the people of Wokan; I therefore promised that I would visit their head village with the brig, at which they appeared to be well contented, and departed for their homes to make ready for our reception. Among the Government presents which I gave to the Orang Kaya were two Dutch flags, on which they set a high value; in addition to which I left in his hands some trifles for the Arafuras of the islands at the back of the group.

At the conclusion of these ceremonies I sent both boats on board the brig, the remainder of our party intending to stop the night at the house of the Orang Kaya. During our stay the seamen occupied a house which had been prepared for their reception, where they were abundantly supplied with provisions.

To the northward of the chief village of Wokan there are several small villages, the most important of which, Samau, is inhabited by Mohammedans, who are under the control of the people of the capital. The chiefs of the western islands extend their authority over the Arafuras, each chief having several villages under his rule, the inhabitants of which paid a willing obedience to their governors while they were supported by our Government, who, for this purpose, had only about ten European or Amboynese soldiers on the islands, the serjeant of the party being the commanding officer. The Arafuras then considered themselves obliged to give an account of all their actions to the Christian chiefs, to whom they also delivered up a portion of the profits of their trade. These heathens, in general, are much desirous of becoming converts to Christianity, and willingly allow their children to be instructed in its tenets; but for many years since there have been no teachers, much less missionaries or clergymen among them. Our religion has therefore retrograded, while Islamism, of which there are many priests here, has advanced considerably. This is much to be regretted; for, as I have already stated, a similarity in religious belief forms our strongest bond of union with the people of these countries. The Arafuras prefer Christianity to Mohammedanism, so that were proper measures taken much might be done, especially as they are better in their disposition than the heathen inhabitants of the islands we had previously visited.

Leaving Wokan on the 31st, I next visited Dobbo, a village situated on a spit of sand five hundred yards long, extending from the north-east side of Wama, and reducing the channel between the latter island and Wokan to about a mile. This spit affords shelter to the trading vessels, which anchor to the eastward or to the westward of it, according to the monsoon, and fourteen or fifteen sheds are erected upon it, under which they can be hauled up and repaired. It is very difficult to enter the harbour without a pilot, as steep reefs, dry at low water, extend a considerable distance from Wama and Wokan, forming a narrow and crooked channel, with a depth of eight, nine, and ten fathoms. The reefs, which are always visible in fine weather, extend farther from Wokan than from Wama, so that the channel lies nearest to the south shore. In the early part of the west monsoon several brigs from Sourabaya (Java), a number of paduakans from Macassar (Celebes), together with many other vessels from different places, among which are many small craft from the Ki Islands and Goram, visit this harbour, the greater part of which are hauled up on the beach during their stay, and covered over with sheds of atap. The traders, with the assistance of the natives, erect houses wherein they reside and deposit their goods, the guns belonging to their vessel being planted around it. The traders remain here until the month of June, Dobbo, during their stay, having the appearance of a very populous place. The traders, immediately on their arrival, hire vessels from the inhabitants, which they send with a portion of their crew to the more distant islands, to purchase trepang, edible birds'-nests, and mother-of-pearl shell. The trade is conducted with great regularity, and if differences now and then occur, they are always put an end to by the mediation of the Orang Kaya. The commanders of the trading vessels pay a certain quantity of arrack and cloth as anchorage dues and ground rent, and although the amount paid by each is small, the number of traders is so great as to render this an important source of income to the inhabitants. Soon after the departure of the traders Dobbo is abandoned for the season, the old houses being burnt by the natives that they may have to build new ones the following year, and thus increase their gains.

This spit offers a good situation for the erection of a small fort, the wells upon it supplying good fresh water, while the high beach is open on both sides to the sea-breeze. According to the universal testimony of the natives, this spot is very healthy, and although the sea is disturbed by the number of vessels, it affords abundance of fish. A party sent here from the brig to fish with the seine, obtained at three hauls, a sufficient quantity of kakap (a sort of cod), and other delicate fish, to half fill the boat.

As nothing is to be feared from the natives, I feel convinced that were a fort to be erected on this spot it would soon become a very prosperous trading place. At present the natives do not settle here in great numbers, as the foreign traders do not like them to reside among them. As soon as the traders have departed the people give themselves up to idleness, and only commence collecting produce a short time previous to their return. Neither do the foreign traders now like to settle on the islands, perhaps because they do not place much confidence in the people. I am convinced, however, that were a representative of the Dutch Government to reside here, it would soon become a highly prosperous place, and the harbour would never be without vessels in it.

I cannot avoid giving a short description of the Pilandok or Arru rabbits, an animal rather larger than the common rabbit, of a grey colour, which, as they grow old, becomes quite grizzly. The forelegs are short, and the hind ones, which resemble those of the hare, have each three toes, provided with strong nails. The head is like that of a weazel. These animals do not run very fast, and when resting they usually sit upright on their hind legs. Their food consists of the leaves of the yam plant and other greens, and they are easily tamed, when they may be suffered to run around the house without their attempting to escape. The flavour of their flesh is very agreeable.

On the 1st of September, when at Duryella, I appointed the Orang Kayas to the islands of Wama and Maykor, to each of whom I presented a silver-knobbed baton, besides other government gifts, as pieces of cloth, flags, &c. Several of the chiefs of the more distant islands were also confirmed in their authority on the same occasion, many other affairs being also settled; among which was a reconciliation between the people of two villages on Vorkay, who for some time previously had lived in state of war with each other. The quarrel originated in one of the parties fishing too long on a reef which was their mutual property, and thus obtaining too large a share of its produce. It had already been provisionally adjusted through the mediation of the Christian chiefs, and was now submitted to me for my final decision. The offenders solemnly promised that they would not hereafter exceed their right, and the affair was settled to the satisfaction of both parties, who declared that they would henceforward live in peace and friendship with each other.

The greater portion of the Christian inhabitants of Maykor had come to Duryella, partly to attend to their own interests, and partly for the purpose of being present at the preachings of M. Kam, on which occasions a large number of people were admitted as members of the Christian Church. I occasionally invited the chiefs to dinner with me, which was always considered by them as a great honour, and they never failed to come attended by a numerous retinue, Arafuras as well as Christians, who crept on board from all sides in an instant. The chiefs of the more distant islands, not having been informed of my arrival, had come in their usual dress, the tdejako, or waist-cloth, as they never adorn themselves with their best clothing except on festive occasions. These chiefs were much ashamed of their deshabille, and made repeated excuses; but being informed of the cause, I rejoiced them by having kabayas and breeches prepared for them, when they made their appearance with much greater confidence.

On one occasion a number of chiefs, who had dined on board, remained to spend the evening with me, many of whom, particularly the Arafuras, declared to me that they had never before been on board a ship of war. To give them a good idea of such a vessel I ordered several of the great guns to be fired, and although we had informed them of what was coming, they were terribly frightened, and it was truly ridiculous to see them jump into the air at every shot, like harlequins. Many of them, indeed, jumped overboard, while others hid themselves under the table which stood on the deck, and in any corner they could find. These islanders generally can carry off an inconceivable quantity of spirits. Although at our festive meetings on board more than thirty jugs of arrack were often drunk, they would still take a quantity on shore with them to finish the evening at home.