Fig. 45.
PRACTICAL HINTS
TO
LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING.
Designers for Jacquard work, in addition to being good draughtsmen, must be thoroughly acquainted with the three systems of weaves: plain, twills and satins, and their sub-divisions; also with the structure of double cloth, three-ply cloth, four-ply cloth, etc. He must know the influence of the texture upon the weaves and the fabric; the arrangement of the threads in the dents of the reed; the different systems of tying-up the Jacquard harness; and the stamping of the Jacquard cards for the various kinds of textile fabrics.
Squared Designing Paper for the Different Textile Fabrics Executed on the Jacquard Machine.
The classifying of the □ designing paper is done by enclosing a number of small rectangles, horizontal and vertical, within a certain distance by a heavy line. Such enclosures are known in practice as “squares.” The spaces between the vertical lines indicate the warp-threads, and those between the horizontal lines the filling threads. As a rule the warp dimension is indicated first; and a design paper having five rectangles vertical with ten horizontal, is variously read and indicated as 5 by 10, 5 × 10, or 5/10.