Fig. XXXIV.
[Fig. XXXIV.] shows a fabric designed for dressgoods forming an all-over-set pattern. In this design parts F and F´´ must be executed with the Jacquard leashes; parts G and G can be executed with front harness. For example: parts F and F´´ require each 100 hooks, the ground part to be woven in 4 harness broken twill. We find the answer as to number of warp-threads in the repeat and number of hooks required for weaving as follows:
| F | = | 100 threads. |
| G | = | 100 threads (because covering the same distance as F in part of the fabric.) |
| F´´ | = | 100 threads |
| G | = | 100 threads |
| ---- | ||
| 400 warp threads in repeat. | ||
| F | = | 100 hooks. |
| F´´ | = | 100 hooks |
| ---- | ||
| 200 hooks for figure. | ||
| 4 hooks for weaving the ground, front harness. | ||
| ---- | ||
| 204 hooks required to weave design, [Fig. XXXIV.],repeating with 400 warp-threads. | ||
IV. The Centre Tie-up.
The centre tie-up, also called the point tie-up, has for its purpose the enlargement of the design in fabrics such as table-covers, dressgoods, etc. This tie-up resembles in its principle that of a common point-draw on the harness-loom. After drawing from front to rear once straight through the entire set of harness, draw from rear to front and repeat. The only difference between harness-work and Jacquard work is in the fact, that with harness we commence to draw in from the first harness straight through to the last, A to B, and back again, B to C; but with the Jacquard tie-up on this method this is arranged through the threading of the comber-board, having a straight-through leasing of the heddles and drawing in of the warp.
Fig. XXXV.