Take for illustration a damask fabric, [Fig. LIII.], handkerchief, bureau scarf, art square, etc. The details given will make the work quite plain:
Part of comber-board from A to B, or D to C, illustrates one-half of the board and procedure of tying-up. The design below also shows only one-half of the fabric. Arrow, G, near comber-board, and arrow, M, near fabric, are placed to indicate the direction in which a repeat is obtained. The fabric will form its centre at D, repeating towards each border and selvedge. This is illustrated in the comber-board by the 1-row deep, outside of line A, D. Harness-cords indicated by dotted lines. The threading of this last mentioned row, as well as the threading of the half division of the point tie-up, is indicated by arrows H and K, forming the centre by means of harness-cords 193 and 193. The straight-through tie-up part of the fabric is found between E and F, containing 12 repeats in the centre, and also the same number in the lower border. In the comber-board is illustrated this arrangement, repeating the first row, containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, twelve times, and the last hole of the third row containing harness-cord No. 24, twelve times. On the bottom of the comber-board these 12 repeats are indicated by 12 small arrows between parts E to F.
The first row in the first division of the straight-through tie-up is completely threaded; the other eleven have only the harness-cord from leash 1, as indicated; this is done so as not to confuse the eye with too many lines. The border of the fabric is arranged for harness-cords 25 to 192 on the point tie-up, having one-half division on each side. Arrow L indicates the right-hand border. The border on the left requires the same harness-cords which are threaded in comber-board from right to left; hence the borders of the fabric contain the same design repeating from the centre towards the selvedge.
At the beginning we stated that the use of mixed tie-ups made it possible to employ a smaller size Jacquard machine for large designs containing various effects. The following analysis of [Fig. LII.] shows very clearly how this is done.
Number of warp-ends in one complete repeat in width of the fabric:
Border, right-hand, = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 threads.
Centre, point-tie, { = 168 threads.
{ = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 threads.
Border, left-hand, = 168 threads.
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1248 ends warp in fabric.
Number of needles required to produce the design:
Border, = 168 needles.
Centre on straight-tie, = 24 needles.
Centre on point-tie, = 168 needles.
360 needles required for producing the complete design, thus saving the difference between 1248 and 360, or 888 needles; all of which is accomplished through the use of the mixed tie-up.
Number of harness-cords required for each leash:
Leashes 1 to 24 contain 24 cords for one repeat of the entire design. Leashes 25 to 360 contain 2 cords for one repeat of the entire design. It is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to the lowest possible number of needles. On account of the changes in styles, it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as much opportunity as possible to the designer. In the present tie-up experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the straight-through tie-up either for 6 divisions to 48 ends each, or 4 divisions to 72 ends each. 360 needles, as figured at the beginning, require a 400 machine, or, counting reserve rows, 416 needles; hence we can, without disadvantage, increase 360 needles to 384 or 408, which will give a greater scope, if required, to make a new design.