| 1 | row for selvedge. |
| 10 | rows for binders (B). |
| 41 | rows for figure (A). |
| --- | |
| 52 | rows. |
41 (rows figure) × 12 (needles for one row) = 492 needles to be used for figure.
10 (rows binder) × 12 (needles for one row) = 120 needles to be used for binder.
Suppose we have four divisions in loom, hence, four harness-cords to one leash, for the figure section, or 492 × 4 = 1968 ends of warp used for figure. 1968 threads of figure warp require the same number of threads of ground warp, which must be divided by 120, the number of needles and hooks set apart for it in the machine, or—as each needle and hook carries one leash—120 leashes. 1968 ÷ 120 = 16 repeats; and 48 leashes, or four rows in the machine, must each have 17 harness-cords carrying 816 threads; and 72 leashes, or six rows in the machine, must each have 16 harness-cords carrying 1152 threads, = 1968.
VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single).
This tie-up (the character of which is indicated in [Fig. LVIII.]) is used for textile fabrics having two distinct warps in part of the fabric, and a single warp in the remainder, for ground only. It will readily be seen in the drawing which explains this tie-up that one part of the fabric will have to contain more ends of warp per inch than the other, as the figuring is done with an extra warp upon the regular ground cloth. The number of ends of ground warp per inch will, as a general rule, be the same throughout the fabric. In [Fig. LVIII.], explaining this method of tying-up, the texture is twice as high in the figure stripe as in the ground part of the fabric. If 40 ends of warp per inch are used for the ground, 80 ends per inch must be used in the figured part, B to C, B´ to C´.
Fig. LVIII.