We passed many picturesque villages, some built in lath and plaster, which, at a little distance, might almost have been taken for Cheshire villages, if it were not for the beautiful blue figures flitting about; for blue is the universal colour of the clothing here. We were much interested to see a large number of fishing cormorants at one place; but unfortunately they were not at work. Very light rafts are used for this purpose, turned up at one end, as in the sketch. We also twice saw otters used for the same purpose. The Chinese declared to us that the otter brings the fish up in its paws, and not in its mouth; but they always invent an answer so glibly to your question, whether they know the answer or not, that I should certainly not believe the above without further corroboration. We were surprised to see in one place that the cormorants (after diving) were fished up to the surface in baskets very much the same shape as the birds, and evidently made for the purpose.
OTTER FISHING ON MIN RIVER
About forty miles below Chengtu, the two main branches of the river unite and form something more worthy of the name of river. The branch which flows through Chengtu is called the “Walking Horse River” at its division from the main current—a very dangerous spot for navigation, and one where there are constant disasters. It is said that the rafts generally carry coffins with them in consequence; and certainly the number of those carrying coffins which passed us going upstream gives colour to the story. It was curious to see the boats being towed along by men walking beside them in the water harnessed as trackers. Lower down, the river becomes deeper, and some of the rapids look very pretty, as the water is a bluish-green colour and the rocks are red sandstone. Sometimes the road from the riverside leads up precipitous hills by long stone staircases. The reflections of the common blue clothes of the people, as seen in the river, are an exquisite turquoise colour. The scenery becomes increasingly beautiful as one proceeds down the river. Our escort was changed daily, and one man brought a fowling-piece on board with which to beguile the time. He tried to shoot the wild ducks, which are the size and colour of our tame ones, but he had not the smallest success. We were interested to see the loading of the weapon, which had a piece of smouldering rope finally thrust down the barrel, preparatory to its being fired off. The gun had to be balanced on a bundle of sticks while careful aim was taken at a very near bird sitting quite still. Even then, the bird was in no danger, so far as we could see, but ineffectual attempts to shoot kept the man busy all day. The soldier wore a silver ring, of which he was extremely proud. This had to be entrusted to the other soldier each time that he fired his weapon. Part of the way we had police boatmen, who spent some time in rowing, and were of material assistance to us; but unfortunately this was only a rare occurrence.
Kiating was the first large town we reached, and here we left the boat in order to make our expedition to Mount Omi.
CHAPTER XVII
Mount Omi
We reached Kiating in the morning, and set to work at once on our preparations for the next day. The people there considered us very extraordinary for wishing to make the ascent at such an unusual time of year, and told us that it would be worse than useless, for we should certainly see nothing at all from the top. They pointed out how arduous an ascent it would be, as the snow would make climbing extremely difficult. The weather had been cloudy for some time, and we were in the land of mists, but nothing would deter us from our intention. We had read discouraging accounts of other travellers who had been up there, and it certainly sounded as if we should find the ascent beyond our strength, but we determined, at all events, to try. We arranged to take as little luggage as possible, but it was necessary to take food for six days, as on the sacred mountain there are no inns. There are plenty of monasteries, which give you reasonable accommodation, but it was quite unlikely we should get food there. The first day we travelled across the plain some twenty miles to the foot of the mountain. The scenery was pretty, but nothing remarkable was to be seen at this time of the year. One of the principal objects of interest is the white wax tree, a sort of ash, called by the Chinese “Pai-la-Shu.” The white wax insects are bred in the celebrated valley of the Chien-ch’ang, some 200 miles away among the mountains. When they reach the right stage of development they are put in paper boxes, in bamboo trays, and brought to the plain of Kiating by the swiftest runners. These men only travel by night, as it is essential that the process of development should not proceed too rapidly. The boxes have to be opened every day and ventilated, and the men secure the best rooms in the inns, so that other travellers have much to suffer if they are on the road at the same time. Finally, the education of the grub is finished in the plain round Kiating.
POLICE BOATMAN: MIN RIVER
