The face of China

by E. G. Kemp

SIGNBOARD OF INN

We crossed a large river, and cliffs were pointed out to us containing caves called Man-tsi dwellings, and we were told that they were formerly inhabited by aborigines of that name. The banks of the Min River are honeycombed with them, and it is only quite recently that this Chinese tradition has been called in question. A resident in that district, who was interested in the pottery mounds left by the Man-tsi when they were driven farther west by the Chinese during the Han dynasty (200 B.C.-200 A.D.), was told of the existence of an earthenware coffin. He went to see it, and further investigation proved that such coffins were to be found habitually in the caves, together with fragments of household implements. He found also drawings of architectural columns and figures of winged gods and winged animals carved on the rock, of a totally different character from anything Chinese. The caves differ very much in size, varying from small ones, ten feet deep by seven broad and seven high, to large ones, a hundred feet in depth and eight or ten feet broad and seven or more high. Some of the larger ones have side compartments. Sometimes large simple caves are to be found some thirty or forty feet square, and they are supported by pillars of rock, with well-chiselled chapiters and ornamental masonry above them. These caves have all the same kind of doorways, but they vary considerably in fineness of design and execution. Some of the lintels and sides are well carved. The entrances have been built up, and sometimes so skilfully filled in with earth that all external traces of them are obliterated.

As may be supposed, a large number of these caves have been broken into by the Chinese and rifled of their contents. In a cave opened at Penshau in 1908, two skeletons were found lying on either side of the entrance, one with a long sword lying beside it, and the other with a short sword. There were small images in niches at the upper end of the cave, and a large jar full of cash, besides many household dishes. As this was evidently the burying-place of a poor family, there were no earthenware coffins; but in a similar one, evidently belonging to a rich family, the corpses were all in earthenware coffins, the material of which was the same as that now used in the district for making tiles for the houses. In this cave there were a number of birds and domestic animals in burnt clay, a variety of crockery, and various traces of its former wealth, but it had evidently been robbed of such things as the brass basins and cash which are found in these wealthier tombs. The writer of the article in the North China Herald (Dec. 26, 1908), from whose account I have made this brief summary, goes on to say that the coffins are made in two pieces, the main body and the lid. He investigated a large number of these caves, which are being ruthlessly destroyed by the natives, who have no idea of the value of what they find in them, and will sell such things as swords for a few pence to be used as old iron. Stone coffins are also not uncommon in them. The caves were evidently closed about the beginning of the Christian era, when the Man-tsi were still living on the banks of the Min River. It is to be hoped that some capable archæologist will soon take up the study of these caves before it is too late, as evidently there is much to be learnt with regard to the history of the Chinese as well as of the Man-tsi in that district.

Marco Polo, in referring to the Man-tsi district, mentions the widespread culture of cinnamon, and what we procured in Chengtu was certainly the most delicious we had ever tasted.

Rain began to fall as we neared the town of Omi, and we found there was no chance of our getting farther that night. Fresh coolies had to be engaged the next day, as it requires experienced men for going up the mountain. The usual method of being carried is to sit on a wooden perch attached to the shoulders of the coolies. A young American whom we met had been carried up to the top in this way. At one point the coolie stopped on the edge of a precipice to take a little rest, and suddenly stooped down, so that the American hung over the abyss. On his uttering a remonstrance, the coolie remarked quite unconcernedly, “Have no fear; I am only picking up a pebble with my toes.” He was standing on one leg!

MOUNT OMI BRIDGE

We arranged to start at our usual hour, 6.30; but we waited for a long time in vain. A few coolies came and fussed round the luggage, but while the others were being brought they disappeared, so that we began to fear we should never do our stage. A great deal of scolding and losing of one’s temper (no simulation in the present case, though that is often necessary in China in order to make the coolies start) had to be gone through before we started. At last we got off at 8 o’clock, with the understanding that the coolies were to get us as far as Wan Yen Sz that day, for we had been told that we must be sure to go to that place and stop at a comfortable monastery. There are seventy monasteries on the mountain; some of them very large, but others small and ill-kept. As soon as we left the plain the scenery became more and more beautiful. At the foot of it magnificent banyans and groups of sacred cedars formed a fine contrast to the slender trunks of the other trees. Then we came to a charming crystal stream, shaded by arching bamboos. The path was so narrow that whenever we met any one, they had to stride across the stream to let us pass, or they would scuttle away (if they were women) to some spot where there was room to stand, for the chair-bearers never pause or give way to other passengers; they simply ignore their being there and walk straight into them. Maidenhair and every kind of lovely fern was reflected in the green water. As we went up the valley the path led perilously round lofty rocks; once my chair stuck fast, unable to be moved either way, with the horrible precipice yawning below. My bearers yelled (from anger, not fear, I think), and one of the soldiers happily came to the rescue, for I cannot think what would have happened otherwise. Another time one of the front coolies fell flat coming down a flight of steps, so that on the whole we found that part of the journey very anxious work, both going up and coming down. We soon abandoned our chairs and began walking up endless flights of steps. We crossed an interesting little bridge ornamented with a dragon facing up the stream, whose tail projected from the farther side of the bridge, as in the sketch. These dragons are a favourite ornament of bridges in this province, and are there not merely for ornament but also to ward off the evil spirits. That is why they always face up the stream. The person crossing the bridge is a typical Szechwan woman.

We reached Wan Yen Sz much earlier than we expected. The bronze elephant in the temple there is considered very interesting, but it is certainly not ornamental. It is said to have come from India, and how it was conveyed thence nobody can explain. It had been damaged by fire, and there was a large hole in the under side, so a shrine had been made there, and two little Buddhas put in it, with incense in front. The tail was also extremely defective, so bits of incense like hairs had been stuck at the end of it. The Chinese really have no sense of the ludicrous in such matters, though they have a keen sense of humour, and one is constantly tempted to laugh in the temples. Happily, they do not mind this at all, and would not think that we were showing any lack of reverence. In the adjoining temple the monks were chanting, while two or three of them kept up a continuous beating on the Buddha fish and other gongs, as seen in the sketch. In front of the Buddha, and almost concealing him, was a large stone monument put up by an Indian prince. Near here we were shown a piece of stone which was said to be the Buddha’s tooth. It weighed several pounds, and is much venerated by pilgrims.

We provided ourselves with stout pilgrim staves, which we found of the utmost value on both our up ward and downward journeys. They have quaintly carved dragons or tigers at the top, with a loose wooden pea which rattles in their mouths. These sticks cost from a penny to 2½d., and after the pilgrimage has been performed it is the correct thing to have them painted red and black and gold. The tiger is the mountain god who was worshipped long before the existence of the Buddha, and whose shrines are still to be seen all the way up the mountain, with incense burning before them.